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Repairing Your Gas Dryer:
WARNING!!
Working with a gas dryer can be very dangerous. Please use extreme caution and make sure that the dryer is unplugged before any work is done. If you don’t know how to properly check for gas leads, do not remove the gas line. If you smell gas and aren’t able to find the leak, turn off the gas immediately, and call a professional to avoid injury or possible death. Use all precaution you can to protect yourself and those in your home.
The first thing we are going to look at is all the parts in your gas dryer working to give you heat. Make sure you get your model number off of the tag stamped on the dryer to get the correct parts for your dryer when you determine the problem. There is a power inlet cord that feeds 110-120vac electricity to all the parts in the dryer. The timer or control board is what is connecting the power to the appropriate parts through the cycle. The parts giving you heat vary model to model such as the number of thermostats, etc.. All are similar on in the order of operation. There is a gas valve that delivers the gas when the two wire coil of the two coils mounted on the top of the valve is energized once the thermostat mounted to the side of the flame tube reaches the correct temperature. The three wire coil mounted to the top of the valve is energized when the dryer timer is set on a heated selection and you press start, connecting power to the ignitor. There will be safety fuses to act as fail safes if the thermostats that control the temperature malfunction. The parts giving you your tumble and air flow during the cycle are the belt that runs over the tub, under the tensoiner pulley to hold the belt tight, and onto the motor pulley which gives you your spin. On the other shaft of the motor is the blower wheel that pulls the hot air over the clothes and out the vent giving the dryer the ability to dry the clothes. The parts ensuring a smooth sounding tumble will vary model to model. You could have two rollers on the back, plastic glides snapped to the tub, and a piece of felt on the front panel. Felt with glides on the front panel, rear bearing cup and assembly. Four rollers on the front and back panel with felt on the tub, etc..
Your gas dryer will not heat:
If your dryer won’t heat when you turn it on the 1st thing you’ll want to do is start the dryer in a heated selection and turn it on. Most dryers have a small square plastic piece located on the bottom left or right of the front panel, pop it out and you’ll be able to see inside of the cabinet and watch for the glow of the ignitor. If you don’t have a peep hole on your dryer what you’ll want to listen for is, immediately after you hit the start button on a heated selection on the timer you should hear a clunking sound. If you just hear the motor take off and no clunk, or dont’ see the glow from the ignitor for those who can look inside, then you’ve got one of several problems. You’ll need to figure out how to get into your dryer, we show you how in videos on our website. On gas dryers, unlike electric dryers order of operation, if the dryer is running and not heating you could have a thermal fuse issue. You’ll need to take your model number online to a parts dealer with a model look up to look through a parts breakdown of you dryer to find out which part is your thermal fuse it will have only 2 wires running to it. Once you’ve located your thermal fuse you can run an ohms or continuity test on the fuse. If you get no ohms then replace the fuse. Make sure before reapplying the vent and putting it back into regular use you clear the vent out completely from the inside to the outside. This is the most common cause of the thermal fuse malfunction. Also, get an oven thermometer or if you have a digital infared heat reader, which is best, and check the heat coming out of the back before putting the back panel on. You want 155F-170F deg coming out of the back of the dryer on a high temperature setting(test with no clothes in the drum and on timed dry selection on the timer). If the temperature is rising much higher than that you’ll need to replace the cycling thermostat which controls the temperature when operating.
If the thermal fuse gives a good ohms/continuity get the dryer to a place where you can power test the components inside of the cabinet minus the tub and with the font panel off. This is all relative to pressing the start button and not hearing a clunk or seeing a glow from the ignitor. You’ll need to make sure that the door switch is plugged in, no wires are grounded, and if your gas dryer has a tensioner safety switch disengage it. Plug the dryer in and press start start on a heated selection. Power test on vac at the three wire coil mounted to the top of the gas valve for 110-120vac. If your getting power and no glow from the ignitor, replace the coils.
Now if your hearing a clunk when you press start and aren’t seeing a glow from the ignitor:
This could be the ignitor, the gas coils, or the flame switch. This can be a bit tricky. If your dryer has a small plastic tab you can remove with the dryer together you can look inside to see if the ignitor is glowing or not. If the ignitor is not glowing. Unplug the dryer, take the dryer apart, tub out, door switch still plugged in, timer set to a heated selection, plug the dryer back in, and the dryer turned on. With a power tester check for 110-120vac at the 2 wires running to the ignitor. If your getting 110vac to the ignitor and no glow replace the ignitor.
If your getting a glow from the ignitor but the gas never comes on:
You’ll need to take the dryer apart to a point that you can power test at the flame switch. The flame switch is mounted on the side of the flame tube and is a black square part with two wires. If you get 110-120vac at the thermostat the ignitor glows and the gas never comes on and you still have the same power at the thermostat when the ignitor shuts off replace the flame switch.
When the flame is coming on and shutting off after a short time running:
Note: the flame should be on for 1 1/2-2 min when it 1st start, then come on to hold the correct temperature, 155f-175f deg if testing at the vent, thereafter. If the ignitor is glowing the flame is coming on and shutting off before getting hot enough, or not coming back on at all after the 1st time, replace the gas coils.
If the dryer is not getting hot enough by a little bit or just not getting the clothes dry enough:
1st clear out the vent from inside to outside to make sure its not just an air flow problem. You could have a cycling thermostat issue if its getting hot but just not hot enough. If your heat testing with an oven thermometer or laser thermal heat tester where the air is coming out of the back of the dryer with the vent off and no clothes in the dryer. You want 155-170f deg.. If its just not quite hot enough replace the cycling thermostat.
If the tub isn’t spinning or its noisy during spin:
You’ll need to to take the dryer apart and check you belt, rollers, and tensioner. Its best for regular maintenance to replace them all if you have a problem with 1. Due to the fact that these are you normal use wear and tear parts. Model to model they will be set up differently inside as far as the tub turning on felt with glides, # number of rollers, the style of tensioner, rear bearing set-up, etc.. The best way to find out what parts your dryer has inside to get an idea of how to take it apart, the parts ensuring a smooth sounding tumble, and what parts are working to give you heat is to come to our site and do a model number search and you’ll get a parts breakdown giving you direction before you tear into the dryer. This is just a general article mainly for the heating issue. Once again we have some videos on gas dryer repair at our site. Good luck on your repair.
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See our videos on Whirlpool/Kenmore/Newer Maytag Belt, Rollers, Tensioner replacement, Gas Coil Replacement, Gas Dryer Ignitor Replacement, Whirlpool Dryer Thermal Fuse.
Checking Your Newer Style Whirlpool Dryer:
WARNING!!
Working with electric dryers is dangerous! Before anything is taken apart by an individual it should be unplugged. Before any tests are done on internal components you should inspect all wires terminals to make sure they are not grounded to avoid further damage to working components. Be mindful of all exposed wires to avoid injury or possible death. Because of the danger involved with repair on such appliances, it is best to have someone with working knowledge (appliance technician) take care of the problem.
If the dryer is not drying well, but still heating:
Always check the vent before calling a technician. I would recommend checking your vent at least once a year. More if you have flexible hose and a lot of turns on the way out of the house. Its best, if you can, to physically take the vent apart from the dryer to the hood vent where it exists the house. You'll also want to take the back panel off of the dryer to gain access to the blower housing running from the bottom to the top on the left side of the back of the dryer. There will be four 1/4" or 5/16" screws you'll need to remove to pull the cover away from the housing. Once you've gained access make sure that the cover isn't fill with lint and other junk that likes to accumulates in there. That way you can be sure its all clear. Its recommended that solid, 4", aluminum or galvanized solid vent be used on the entire vent set up. If you don't want to run all solid vent, you should make sure to at least use 90 degree adjustable elbows on any part of the vent that makes a bend, so you have 4" of air flow all the way out. If the vent is clear, then its possible that an internal component is not functioning correctly. A technician can properly diagnose the problem, so there is no guessing involved, and the problem gets fixed in a timely manner.
If your clothes aren't getting dry, there is still heat, and you've made sure that the vent is clear:
A great way to determine If the cycling thermostat is the problem is to undo the vent from the back of the dryer and place an oven thermometer (with the dryer running) in the where the heat exits the dryer. Allow to run for 10 minutes with the thermometer in place. The heat you should get coming out of the vent is 155f - 165f degrees, depending on the temperature rating stamped on the metal piece of the cycling thermostat (4 prong thermostat) . If your not getting the heat reading is low and after you've run it for a while. Unplug the dryer and remove the the back panel. This will require a 1/4" nut driver or a 5/16" nut driver. Once the panel has been removed there is a thermostat with 4 terminals mounted to the blower housing. To better aid you in finding the thermostat, right above the thermostat is a small white thermal fuse with two blue wires running to it. Its best to do a model number search on your appliance to get the correct thermostat for you appliance. 2 of the most common used are adjustable the thermostats Part # 694674 or the 155f degree thermostat part # 3387134. Replace the thermostat and do the same test as earlier to check for the correct heat coming out of the back of the dryer.
If your not getting any heat at all, but the dryer will run:
This could be one of few different component failures. If you have a power tester, and want to try this on your own. Pull the plug out only slightly. There are 3 terminals on the plug two beside each other (power Line 1 and Line 2), the other is on top or below depending on how your 220v wall socket was installed. This terminal is your neutral line. Put one of your tester's prongs on line 1 and the other on line 2 if you don't have 220v between the 2, or from the neutral line to each of the power lines 110v then you have a fuse problem or a wiring issue. If you have a fuse electrical system feeding you dryer power. Go to the fuse, cut the power, and remove each fuse one at a time doing a continuity test on each one of the fuses. Replace the one that's bad and you should have heat again. If you have a breaker box electrical system. Flip the breaker off that feeds the dryer. Take off the protective cover of the wall socket the dryer plugs into to make sure there are no wires burnt up. If there is not put the cover back on, grab a flashlight, flip the main breaker, remove the cover to the box, and check the wires running into the breaker that turns the dryer on and off. If you can't find anything wrong you may need an electrician to eliminate the problem. If you do have 220v between line 1 and line 2, and 110v from neutral to line 1 and 2. Make sure to check where the plug runs into the dryer, sometimes the wires heat up and burn apart where they tie together inside the dryer. Remove the back panel of the dryer to access your dryers electrical components controlling the heat. Now plug the dryer back in. With the dryer timer on, and you hear motor running, test your power at each component, starting with the element (279838), if it shows 220v and you have no heat, its the problem. Same goes for all other components with 2 large gauged wires, like the ones running to the element. Wherever the power reads 220v, with the dryer running, when you have no heat, that component is the problem. If they all show zero, then the problem is not in the area your looking in and will be a little more difficult to diagnose. The timer could have a burnt contact inside or the power that runs through the motor might not be making to the heating components connecting the 110v to give you heat. You may need a technician if you've ran through all the tests.
If the dryer won't come on, and you hear no ticking from the timer when you press start:
Be sure to first check your breaker to make sure its not tripped. If it is tripped, turn it off, and back on. If the dryer immediately trips the breaker again there is a ground fault issue. Don't continue to try to turn it on, unplug the dryer, then try to turn the breaker back on. If it won't stay on with the dryer unplugged then change the breaker. If it stays on with the dryer unplugged you know you have a problem with the dryer. If you have fuses rather than breakers, find the fuse box and run an ohms test on each of the fuses involved with powering the dryer. When a fuse is bad, you will only get 120vac to the 220vac outlet the dryer plugs into. On the other hand, if that checks out okay and you have access to a power tester check for power at your 220vac outlet. It will read anywhere from 220vac-240vac. If you have power to the wall plug, then once again an internal component has malfunctioned or a wire is grounded. Open the door of the dryer and visually inspect the arm of the door switch to make sure it hasn't broken off. If it has replace it. If it's not broken, unplug the dryer, and remove the 2 screws that mount the top panel of the dryer located under the lint trap lid. Pull on each side of the top panel and lift up to gain access to the door switch. Now track the wires that feed the door switch power back to the harness. When you locate the plug take your tester set to ACV and insert each prong into the harness. Plug the dryer in with the door shut, you shouldn't get 220vac with this test. If you do get 220vac then replace the door switch. If you don't get 220vac, just to be sure open the door with the prongs still in the harness and you will get 220vac. This tells you that the contacts are closed with the door shut and open with it shut which is working properly.Unplug the dryer, and remove the 1/4" screws to the control panel. Examine all the wires for anything burnt up and grounded. If you don't see anything the timer could have a contact stuck together inside, we'll get back to that later if everything else is okay. Now go to the back of the dryer, remove the back panel and examine each of the wires running to the thermostats and the element. If a wire is grounded, cut out the bad part of the wire and replace it. If everything checks out take the 2 screws out of the top panel located under the cover of the lint trap. Place your hands on each side of the top panel, pull and lift and the top panel will lift up. Undo the wire harness running to the door switch (remember where each wire goes. Inside there are two 5/16" screws, remove them and lift up on the front panel. Under the tub is your tensioner pulley that applies tension to the belt to make it tight. Relieve the pressure from the belt and remove it and the tub. Now that you can see everything clearly, check over the wire to the motor for anything that could be grounded. If everything checks out okay. Go back to the timer, be very careful here you don't want to damage the timer, remove the knob and any screws holding it in place. Pull it away from the panel and undo the 2 phillips head screws holding the cover on. Slowly and gently twist the shaft and pull the cover off. Look at all the points well for contacts soldered together. If there are points stuck together replace the timer. If it all checks out okay then you may need the help of a technician to properly diagnose and fix the problem.
If the dryer won't come on, but you can still hear ticking from the timer:
Unplug the dryer, remove the back panel, plug the dryer back in, and try to start the dryer again. It won't come on. Now your looking for a small white fuse located beside the 4 prong thermostat. Once you've located the fuse, take your power tester, set it to ACV testing mode and test at the two wires plugged into the fuse. If you get 220vac at the fuse, unplug the dryer, and change the fuse. After you've replaced the fuse don't put the back panel on yet. You'll want to plug the dryer back in and turn it on. Place a thermometer in the vent coming out of the back of the dryer. Make sure that the dryer is holding the correct temperature. You want 155f- 170f degrees coming out of the back of the dryer. If it's climbing of 175 shut the dryer down and unplug it. Visually check the wires to both the the thermostat mounted right above the wires running to the element and the element wires to make sure they're not burnt. If everything looks okay undo the wires to the element and ,with your tester set on continuity setting, place 1 prong on the either terminal of the element and the other onto the casing around the element. If you get continuity replace the element its shorted out. If you get no continuity and the wires look okay replace the cycling thermostat Part # 694674 adjustable thermostat, or using your model number in a search find the thermostat part # for your dryer. To be on the safe side you should replace the thermostat mounted above the wires running to the element as well, sometimes this thermostat will hold power open to the element and won't allow the cycling thermostat to shut off the heat when it's supposed to.
If the drum won't spin when you turn the dryer on:
You'll probable need to replace the belt. Remove the 2 screws under the lid of the lint trap. Place a hand on each side of the panel, pull and lift to get access to the front panel screws. Undo the harness to the door switch. You'll need a 5/16" nut driver to remove the 2 screws inside the cabinet. Once you've removed the screws lift up on the front panel to remove it. Inside the belt (341241 usually) will either be broken or may have come off of the tensioner pulley. If it has come off the tensioner pulley before you re-apply it feel the rubber side of the belt to make sure it isn't dry and cracked. If it still feels nice smooth and rubbery, re-apply the belt and put the dryer back together. If the belt is broken, purchase a new belt, put it on and re-assemble the dryer.
If you hit the start button and the dryer just hums:
This could also be an issue with the belt, but you'll have to go through the same steps to get to the belt to find out. Unplug the dryer, take the screws out of the top panel pull and lift the top panel. This time leave the harness plugged in to the door switch, just pull them away from clip that holds the wires to the cabinet. Undo the 5/16" screws inside the cabinet and lift up on the front panel. Set the door to the side and look inside the dryer to make sure that the belt hasn't gotten locked up on the tensioner or the motor pulley. If it has make sure to feel the belt for dry cracked feel on the rubber side to make sure it doesn't need replaced. If it feels okay put it back into to place and re-assemble the dryer. If the belt is still correctly on both the motor and tensioner pulley. Take the belt off and remove the tub from the dryer. Try to manually spin the pulley on the motor. If it will spin freely then, make sure your door switch is still plugged in, plug the dryer back in, and start the dryer. If it won't take off with everything removed and it'll spin manually, the motor needs replaced. If it won't spin freely you'll need to undo the harness to the door switch and gain access to the blower that screws onto the other side of the motor. You'll need to remove the back access panel using either 1/4" or 5/16" nut driver. Inside the back panel, on the left side of the dryer you'll see a blower cover running up to top of the dryer where you took the screws out to remove the top panel. There are 4 1/4" or 5/16" screws mounting the cover to the blower housing. Remove the screws and the cover. You'll now be able to make sure that there isn't something in the blower stopping the motor from spinning. If it's clear then the motor itself is locked up.
If one of your baffles (the plastic pieces inside the tub) are broken inside the tub:
This is a pretty easy fix. Using your model number, search out the part # to the baffle you need, and get it ordered. Take out the 2 screws lift and pull on the top panel. Undo the lid switch, remove the to 5/16" screws to the front panel, lift the front panel, and place it to the side. Undo the belt and remove the tub. There will be screws that on the outside of the tub that mount the baffles to the tub. Remove the screws to release the old baffle. Mount your new baffle and re-assemble your dryer.
If your dryer is squealing or really noisy:
There are 2, sometimes 4 drum rollers on these dryers, along with a tensioner pulley, blower wheel on the backside of the motor, and bearings in the motor. There is also front and rear felt, and depending on the model there could be a front plastic clip that snaps into the drum. All of these things could give you a lot of noise and the only way to determine the problem is to take it apart and manually inspect all of these parts. Using the same steps above lift the lid, remove the front panel, and pull out the drum. Once you have the drum out examine the front of the rear felt to make sure it hasn't come loose or been rusted. If it has been rusted and is hardened opposed to a softer felt feel to it, change the felt. You'll need the model number to make sure you get the right felt. You'll have to use a scraper or screw driver to get under the felt and then pull and use the tool to get it all the way off. The new felt should come with the correct glue to mount it. After you've put the felt on be sure to make sure the vent isn't plugged. A plugged up vent usually is what causes this problem. If the felt looks okay and, if present, the glides are still snapped in check the rollers located in the back of the inside of the cabinet, and on some models on the inside under the door. Manually spin each drum roller. If they aren't spinning freely you can either put some white lithium grease on them or replace them. Before you replace them be sure to check the supports that hold the rollers to make sure they have been damaged as well. If the drum rollers check out okay move onto the tensioner. Manually spin the pulley. If it doesn't spin freely replace it. There are whirlpool roller kits available that have 2 rollers, a belt, and a tensioner pulley if you want to replace it all. If all this checks out then you could have something in the blower housing or a bearing going out on the motor.
