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Friday, September 16, 2011
Good Appliance Superstore
Good Appliance Superstore: Online we sell new and hard do find used, reconditioned appliance parts at great prices. We also offer how to article and videos to aid our customers in their repair.
Sunday, July 24, 2011
Electric Dryer
Checking Your Newer Style Whirlpool Dryer.
WARNING!!
Working with electric dryers is dangerous! Before anything is taken apart by an individual it should be unplugged. Before any tests are done on internal components you should inspect all wires terminals to make sure they are not grounded to avoid further damage to working components. Be mindful of all exposed wires to avoid injury or possible death. Because of the danger involved with repair on such appliances, it is best to have someone with working knowledge (appliance technician) take care of the problem.
If the dryer is not drying well, but still heating:
Always check the vent before calling a technician. I would recommend checking your vent at least once a year. More if you have flexible hose and a lot of turns on the way out of the house. Its best, if you can, to physically take the vent apart from the dryer to the hood vent where it exists the house. You'll also want to take the back panel off of the dryer to gain access to the blower housing running from the bottom to the top on the left side of the back of the dryer. There will be four 1/4" or 5/16" screws you'll need to remove to pull the cover away from the housing. Once you've gained access make sure that the cover isn't fill with lint and other junk that likes to accumulates in there. That way you can be sure its all clear. Its recommended that solid, 4", aluminum or galvanized solid vent be used on the entire vent set up. If you don't want to run all solid vent, you should make sure to at least use 90 degree adjustable elbows on any part of the vent that makes a bend, so you have 4" of air flow all the way out. If the vent is clear, then its possible that an internal component is not functioning correctly. A technician can properly diagnose the problem, so there is no guessing involved, and the problem gets fixed in a timely manner.
If your clothes aren't getting dry, there is still heat, and you've made sure that the vent is clear:
A great way to determine If the cycling thermostat is the problem is to undo the vent from the back of the dryer and place an oven thermometer (with the dryer running) in the where the heat exits the dryer. Allow to run for 10 minutes with the thermometer in place. The heat you should get coming out of the vent is 155f - 165f degrees, depending on the temperature rating stamped on the metal piece of the cycling thermostat (4 prong thermostat) . If your not getting the heat reading is low and after you've run it for a while. Unplug the dryer and remove the the back panel. This will require a 1/4" nut driver or a 5/16" nut driver. Once the panel has been removed there is a thermostat with 4 terminals mounted to the blower housing. To better aid you in finding the thermostat, right above the thermostat is a small white thermal fuse with two blue wires running to it. Its best to do a model number search on your appliance to get the correct thermostat for you appliance. 2 of the most common used are adjustable the thermostats Part # 694674 or the 155f degree thermostat part # 3387134. Replace the thermostat and do the same test as earlier to check for the correct heat coming out of the back of the dryer.
If your not getting any heat at all, but the dryer will run:
This could be one of few different component failures. If you have a power tester, and want to try this on your own. Pull the plug out only slightly. There are 3 terminals on the plug two beside each other (power Line 1 and Line 2), the other is on top or below depending on how your 220v wall socket was installed. This terminal is your neutral line. Put one of your tester's prongs on line 1 and the other on line 2 if you don't have 220v between the 2, or from the neutral line to each of the power lines 110v then you have a fuse problem or a wiring issue. If you have a fuse electrical system feeding you dryer power. Go to the fuse, cut the power, and remove each fuse one at a time doing a continuity test on each one of the fuses. Replace the one that's bad and you should have heat again. If you have a breaker box electrical system. Flip the breaker off that feeds the dryer. Take off the protective cover of the wall socket the dryer plugs into to make sure there are no wires burnt up. If there is not put the cover back on, grab a flashlight, flip the main breaker, remove the cover to the box, and check the wires running into the breaker that turns the dryer on and off. If you can't find anything wrong you may need an electrician to eliminate the problem. If you do have 220v between line 1 and line 2, and 110v from neutral to line 1 and 2. Make sure to check where the plug runs into the dryer, sometimes the wires heat up and burn apart where they tie together inside the dryer. Remove the back panel of the dryer to access your dryers electrical components controlling the heat. Now plug the dryer back in. With the dryer timer on, and you hear motor running, test your power at each component, starting with the element (279838), if it shows 220v and you have no heat, its the problem. Same goes for all other components with 2 large gauged wires, like the ones running to the element. Wherever the power reads 220v, with the dryer running, when you have no heat, that component is the problem. If they all show zero, then the problem is not in the area your looking in and will be a little more difficult to diagnose. The timer could have a burnt contact inside or the power that runs through the motor might not be making to the heating components connecting the 110v to give you heat. You may need a technician if you've ran through all the tests.
If the dryer won't come on, and you hear no ticking from the timer when you press start:
Be sure to first check your breaker to make sure its not tripped. If it is tripped, turn it off, and back on. If the dryer immediately trips the breaker again there is a ground fault issue. Don't continue to try to turn it on, unplug the dryer, then try to turn the breaker back on. If it won't stay on with the dryer unplugged then change the breaker. If it stays on with the dryer unplugged you know you have a problem with the dryer. If you have fuses rather than breakers, find the fuse box and run an ohms test on each of the fuses involved with powering the dryer. When a fuse is bad, you will only get 120vac to the 220vac outlet the dryer plugs into. On the other hand, if that checks out okay and you have access to a power tester check for power at your 220vac outlet. It will read anywhere from 220vac-240vac. If you have power to the wall plug, then once again an internal component has malfunctioned or a wire is grounded. Open the door of the dryer and visually inspect the arm of the door switch to make sure it hasn't broken off. If it has replace it. If it's not broken, unplug the dryer, and remove the 2 screws that mount the top panel of the dryer located under the lint trap lid. Pull on each side of the top panel and lift up to gain access to the door switch. Now track the wires that feed the door switch power back to the harness. When you locate the plug take your tester set to ACV and insert each prong into the harness. Plug the dryer in with the door shut, you shouldn't get 220vac with this test. If you do get 220vac then replace the door switch. If you don't get 220vac, just to be sure open the door with the prongs still in the harness and you will get 220vac. This tells you that the contacts are closed with the door shut and open with it shut which is working properly.Unplug the dryer, and remove the 1/4" screws to the control panel. Examine all the wires for anything burnt up and grounded. If you don't see anything the timer could have a contact stuck together inside, we'll get back to that later if everything else is okay. Now go to the back of the dryer, remove the back panel and examine each of the wires running to the thermostats and the element. If a wire is grounded, cut out the bad part of the wire and replace it. If everything checks out take the 2 screws out of the top panel located under the cover of the lint trap. Place your hands on each side of the top panel, pull and lift and the top panel will lift up. Undo the wire harness running to the door switch (remember where each wire goes. Inside there are two 5/16" screws, remove them and lift up on the front panel. Under the tub is your tensioner pulley that applies tension to the belt to make it tight. Relieve the pressure from the belt and remove it and the tub. Now that you can see everything clearly, check over the wire to the motor for anything that could be grounded. If everything checks out okay. Go back to the timer, be very careful here you don't want to damage the timer, remove the knob and any screws holding it in place. Pull it away from the panel and undo the 2 phillips head screws holding the cover on. Slowly and gently twist the shaft and pull the cover off. Look at all the points well for contacts soldered together. If there are points stuck together replace the timer. If it all checks out okay then you may need the help of a technician to properly diagnose and fix the problem.
If the dryer won't come on, but you can still hear ticking from the timer:
Unplug the dryer, remove the back panel, plug the dryer back in, and try to start the dryer again. It won't come on. Now your looking for a small white fuse located beside the 4 prong thermostat. Once you've located the fuse, take your power tester, set it to ACV testing mode and test at the two wires plugged into the fuse. If you get 220vac at the fuse, unplug the dryer, and change the fuse. After you've replaced the fuse don't put the back panel on yet. You'll want to plug the dryer back in and turn it on. Place a thermometer in the vent coming out of the back of the dryer. Make sure that the dryer is holding the correct temperature. You want 155f- 170f degrees coming out of the back of the dryer. If it's climbing of 175 shut the dryer down and unplug it. Visually check the wires to both the the thermostat mounted right above the wires running to the element and the element wires to make sure they're not burnt. If everything looks okay undo the wires to the element and ,with your tester set on continuity setting, place 1 prong on the either terminal of the element and the other onto the casing around the element. If you get continuity replace the element its shorted out. If you get no continuity and the wires look okay replace the cycling thermostat Part # 694674 adjustable thermostat, or using your model number in a search find the thermostat part # for your dryer. To be on the safe side you should replace the thermostat mounted above the wires running to the element as well, sometimes this thermostat will hold power open to the element and won't allow the cycling thermostat to shut off the heat when it's supposed to.
If the drum won't spin when you turn the dryer on:
You'll probable need to replace the belt. Remove the 2 screws under the lid of the lint trap. Place a hand on each side of the panel, pull and lift to get access to the front panel screws. Undo the harness to the door switch. You'll need a 5/16" nut driver to remove the 2 screws inside the cabinet. Once you've removed the screws lift up on the front panel to remove it. Inside the belt (341241 usually) will either be broken or may have come off of the tensioner pulley. If it has come off the tensioner pulley before you re-apply it feel the rubber side of the belt to make sure it isn't dry and cracked. If it still feels nice smooth and rubbery, re-apply the belt and put the dryer back together. If the belt is broken, purchase a new belt, put it on and re-assemble the dryer.
If you hit the start button and the dryer just hums:
This could also be an issue with the belt, but you'll have to go through the same steps to get to the belt to find out. Unplug the dryer, take the screws out of the top panel pull and lift the top panel. This time leave the harness plugged in to the door switch, just pull them away from clip that holds the wires to the cabinet. Undo the 5/16" screws inside the cabinet and lift up on the front panel. Set the door to the side and look inside the dryer to make sure that the belt hasn't gotten locked up on the tensioner or the motor pulley. If it has make sure to feel the belt for dry cracked feel on the rubber side to make sure it doesn't need replaced. If it feels okay put it back into to place and re-assemble the dryer. If the belt is still correctly on both the motor and tensioner pulley. Take the belt off and remove the tub from the dryer. Try to manually spin the pulley on the motor. If it will spin freely then, make sure your door switch is still plugged in, plug the dryer back in, and start the dryer. If it won't take off with everything removed and it'll spin manually, the motor needs replaced. If it won't spin freely you'll need to undo the harness to the door switch and gain access to the blower that screws onto the other side of the motor. You'll need to remove the back access panel using either 1/4" or 5/16" nut driver. Inside the back panel, on the left side of the dryer you'll see a blower cover running up to top of the dryer where you took the screws out to remove the top panel. There are 4 1/4" or 5/16" screws mounting the cover to the blower housing. Remove the screws and the cover. You'll now be able to make sure that there isn't something in the blower stopping the motor from spinning. If it's clear then the motor itself is locked up.
If one of your baffles (the plastic pieces inside the tub) are broken inside the tub:
This is a pretty easy fix. Using your model number, search out the part # to the baffle you need, and get it ordered. Take out the 2 screws lift and pull on the top panel. Undo the lid switch, remove the to 5/16" screws to the front panel, lift the front panel, and place it to the side. Undo the belt and remove the tub. There will be screws that on the outside of the tub that mount the baffles to the tub. Remove the screws to release the old baffle. Mount your new baffle and re-assemble your dryer.
If your dryer is squealing or really noisy:
There are 2, sometimes 4 drum rollers on these dryers, along with a tensioner pulley, blower wheel on the backside of the motor, and bearings in the motor. There is also front and rear felt, and depending on the model there could be a front plastic clip that snaps into the drum. All of these things could give you a lot of noise and the only way to determine the problem is to take it apart and manually inspect all of these parts. Using the same steps above lift the lid, remove the front panel, and pull out the drum. Once you have the drum out examine the front of the rear felt to make sure it hasn't come loose or been rusted. If it has been rusted and is hardened opposed to a softer felt feel to it, change the felt. You'll need the model number to make sure you get the right felt. You'll have to use a scraper or screw driver to get under the felt and then pull and use the tool to get it all the way off. The new felt should come with the correct glue to mount it. After you've put the felt on be sure to make sure the vent isn't plugged. A plugged up vent usually is what causes this problem. If the felt looks okay and, if present, the glides are still snapped in check the rollers located in the back of the inside of the cabinet, and on some models on the inside under the door. Manually spin each drum roller. If they aren't spinning freely you can either put some white lithium grease on them or replace them. Before you replace them be sure to check the supports that hold the rollers to make sure they have been damaged as well. If the drum rollers check out okay move onto the tensioner. Manually spin the pulley. If it doesn't spin freely replace it. There are whirlpool roller kits available that have 2 rollers, a belt, and a tensioner pulley if you want to replace it all. If all this checks out then you could have something in the blower housing or a bearing going out on the motor.
WARNING!!
Working with electric dryers is dangerous! Before anything is taken apart by an individual it should be unplugged. Before any tests are done on internal components you should inspect all wires terminals to make sure they are not grounded to avoid further damage to working components. Be mindful of all exposed wires to avoid injury or possible death. Because of the danger involved with repair on such appliances, it is best to have someone with working knowledge (appliance technician) take care of the problem.
If the dryer is not drying well, but still heating:
Always check the vent before calling a technician. I would recommend checking your vent at least once a year. More if you have flexible hose and a lot of turns on the way out of the house. Its best, if you can, to physically take the vent apart from the dryer to the hood vent where it exists the house. You'll also want to take the back panel off of the dryer to gain access to the blower housing running from the bottom to the top on the left side of the back of the dryer. There will be four 1/4" or 5/16" screws you'll need to remove to pull the cover away from the housing. Once you've gained access make sure that the cover isn't fill with lint and other junk that likes to accumulates in there. That way you can be sure its all clear. Its recommended that solid, 4", aluminum or galvanized solid vent be used on the entire vent set up. If you don't want to run all solid vent, you should make sure to at least use 90 degree adjustable elbows on any part of the vent that makes a bend, so you have 4" of air flow all the way out. If the vent is clear, then its possible that an internal component is not functioning correctly. A technician can properly diagnose the problem, so there is no guessing involved, and the problem gets fixed in a timely manner.
If your clothes aren't getting dry, there is still heat, and you've made sure that the vent is clear:
A great way to determine If the cycling thermostat is the problem is to undo the vent from the back of the dryer and place an oven thermometer (with the dryer running) in the where the heat exits the dryer. Allow to run for 10 minutes with the thermometer in place. The heat you should get coming out of the vent is 155f - 165f degrees, depending on the temperature rating stamped on the metal piece of the cycling thermostat (4 prong thermostat) . If your not getting the heat reading is low and after you've run it for a while. Unplug the dryer and remove the the back panel. This will require a 1/4" nut driver or a 5/16" nut driver. Once the panel has been removed there is a thermostat with 4 terminals mounted to the blower housing. To better aid you in finding the thermostat, right above the thermostat is a small white thermal fuse with two blue wires running to it. Its best to do a model number search on your appliance to get the correct thermostat for you appliance. 2 of the most common used are adjustable the thermostats Part # 694674 or the 155f degree thermostat part # 3387134. Replace the thermostat and do the same test as earlier to check for the correct heat coming out of the back of the dryer.
If your not getting any heat at all, but the dryer will run:
This could be one of few different component failures. If you have a power tester, and want to try this on your own. Pull the plug out only slightly. There are 3 terminals on the plug two beside each other (power Line 1 and Line 2), the other is on top or below depending on how your 220v wall socket was installed. This terminal is your neutral line. Put one of your tester's prongs on line 1 and the other on line 2 if you don't have 220v between the 2, or from the neutral line to each of the power lines 110v then you have a fuse problem or a wiring issue. If you have a fuse electrical system feeding you dryer power. Go to the fuse, cut the power, and remove each fuse one at a time doing a continuity test on each one of the fuses. Replace the one that's bad and you should have heat again. If you have a breaker box electrical system. Flip the breaker off that feeds the dryer. Take off the protective cover of the wall socket the dryer plugs into to make sure there are no wires burnt up. If there is not put the cover back on, grab a flashlight, flip the main breaker, remove the cover to the box, and check the wires running into the breaker that turns the dryer on and off. If you can't find anything wrong you may need an electrician to eliminate the problem. If you do have 220v between line 1 and line 2, and 110v from neutral to line 1 and 2. Make sure to check where the plug runs into the dryer, sometimes the wires heat up and burn apart where they tie together inside the dryer. Remove the back panel of the dryer to access your dryers electrical components controlling the heat. Now plug the dryer back in. With the dryer timer on, and you hear motor running, test your power at each component, starting with the element (279838), if it shows 220v and you have no heat, its the problem. Same goes for all other components with 2 large gauged wires, like the ones running to the element. Wherever the power reads 220v, with the dryer running, when you have no heat, that component is the problem. If they all show zero, then the problem is not in the area your looking in and will be a little more difficult to diagnose. The timer could have a burnt contact inside or the power that runs through the motor might not be making to the heating components connecting the 110v to give you heat. You may need a technician if you've ran through all the tests.
If the dryer won't come on, and you hear no ticking from the timer when you press start:
Be sure to first check your breaker to make sure its not tripped. If it is tripped, turn it off, and back on. If the dryer immediately trips the breaker again there is a ground fault issue. Don't continue to try to turn it on, unplug the dryer, then try to turn the breaker back on. If it won't stay on with the dryer unplugged then change the breaker. If it stays on with the dryer unplugged you know you have a problem with the dryer. If you have fuses rather than breakers, find the fuse box and run an ohms test on each of the fuses involved with powering the dryer. When a fuse is bad, you will only get 120vac to the 220vac outlet the dryer plugs into. On the other hand, if that checks out okay and you have access to a power tester check for power at your 220vac outlet. It will read anywhere from 220vac-240vac. If you have power to the wall plug, then once again an internal component has malfunctioned or a wire is grounded. Open the door of the dryer and visually inspect the arm of the door switch to make sure it hasn't broken off. If it has replace it. If it's not broken, unplug the dryer, and remove the 2 screws that mount the top panel of the dryer located under the lint trap lid. Pull on each side of the top panel and lift up to gain access to the door switch. Now track the wires that feed the door switch power back to the harness. When you locate the plug take your tester set to ACV and insert each prong into the harness. Plug the dryer in with the door shut, you shouldn't get 220vac with this test. If you do get 220vac then replace the door switch. If you don't get 220vac, just to be sure open the door with the prongs still in the harness and you will get 220vac. This tells you that the contacts are closed with the door shut and open with it shut which is working properly.Unplug the dryer, and remove the 1/4" screws to the control panel. Examine all the wires for anything burnt up and grounded. If you don't see anything the timer could have a contact stuck together inside, we'll get back to that later if everything else is okay. Now go to the back of the dryer, remove the back panel and examine each of the wires running to the thermostats and the element. If a wire is grounded, cut out the bad part of the wire and replace it. If everything checks out take the 2 screws out of the top panel located under the cover of the lint trap. Place your hands on each side of the top panel, pull and lift and the top panel will lift up. Undo the wire harness running to the door switch (remember where each wire goes. Inside there are two 5/16" screws, remove them and lift up on the front panel. Under the tub is your tensioner pulley that applies tension to the belt to make it tight. Relieve the pressure from the belt and remove it and the tub. Now that you can see everything clearly, check over the wire to the motor for anything that could be grounded. If everything checks out okay. Go back to the timer, be very careful here you don't want to damage the timer, remove the knob and any screws holding it in place. Pull it away from the panel and undo the 2 phillips head screws holding the cover on. Slowly and gently twist the shaft and pull the cover off. Look at all the points well for contacts soldered together. If there are points stuck together replace the timer. If it all checks out okay then you may need the help of a technician to properly diagnose and fix the problem.
If the dryer won't come on, but you can still hear ticking from the timer:
Unplug the dryer, remove the back panel, plug the dryer back in, and try to start the dryer again. It won't come on. Now your looking for a small white fuse located beside the 4 prong thermostat. Once you've located the fuse, take your power tester, set it to ACV testing mode and test at the two wires plugged into the fuse. If you get 220vac at the fuse, unplug the dryer, and change the fuse. After you've replaced the fuse don't put the back panel on yet. You'll want to plug the dryer back in and turn it on. Place a thermometer in the vent coming out of the back of the dryer. Make sure that the dryer is holding the correct temperature. You want 155f- 170f degrees coming out of the back of the dryer. If it's climbing of 175 shut the dryer down and unplug it. Visually check the wires to both the the thermostat mounted right above the wires running to the element and the element wires to make sure they're not burnt. If everything looks okay undo the wires to the element and ,with your tester set on continuity setting, place 1 prong on the either terminal of the element and the other onto the casing around the element. If you get continuity replace the element its shorted out. If you get no continuity and the wires look okay replace the cycling thermostat Part # 694674 adjustable thermostat, or using your model number in a search find the thermostat part # for your dryer. To be on the safe side you should replace the thermostat mounted above the wires running to the element as well, sometimes this thermostat will hold power open to the element and won't allow the cycling thermostat to shut off the heat when it's supposed to.
If the drum won't spin when you turn the dryer on:
You'll probable need to replace the belt. Remove the 2 screws under the lid of the lint trap. Place a hand on each side of the panel, pull and lift to get access to the front panel screws. Undo the harness to the door switch. You'll need a 5/16" nut driver to remove the 2 screws inside the cabinet. Once you've removed the screws lift up on the front panel to remove it. Inside the belt (341241 usually) will either be broken or may have come off of the tensioner pulley. If it has come off the tensioner pulley before you re-apply it feel the rubber side of the belt to make sure it isn't dry and cracked. If it still feels nice smooth and rubbery, re-apply the belt and put the dryer back together. If the belt is broken, purchase a new belt, put it on and re-assemble the dryer.
If you hit the start button and the dryer just hums:
This could also be an issue with the belt, but you'll have to go through the same steps to get to the belt to find out. Unplug the dryer, take the screws out of the top panel pull and lift the top panel. This time leave the harness plugged in to the door switch, just pull them away from clip that holds the wires to the cabinet. Undo the 5/16" screws inside the cabinet and lift up on the front panel. Set the door to the side and look inside the dryer to make sure that the belt hasn't gotten locked up on the tensioner or the motor pulley. If it has make sure to feel the belt for dry cracked feel on the rubber side to make sure it doesn't need replaced. If it feels okay put it back into to place and re-assemble the dryer. If the belt is still correctly on both the motor and tensioner pulley. Take the belt off and remove the tub from the dryer. Try to manually spin the pulley on the motor. If it will spin freely then, make sure your door switch is still plugged in, plug the dryer back in, and start the dryer. If it won't take off with everything removed and it'll spin manually, the motor needs replaced. If it won't spin freely you'll need to undo the harness to the door switch and gain access to the blower that screws onto the other side of the motor. You'll need to remove the back access panel using either 1/4" or 5/16" nut driver. Inside the back panel, on the left side of the dryer you'll see a blower cover running up to top of the dryer where you took the screws out to remove the top panel. There are 4 1/4" or 5/16" screws mounting the cover to the blower housing. Remove the screws and the cover. You'll now be able to make sure that there isn't something in the blower stopping the motor from spinning. If it's clear then the motor itself is locked up.
If one of your baffles (the plastic pieces inside the tub) are broken inside the tub:
This is a pretty easy fix. Using your model number, search out the part # to the baffle you need, and get it ordered. Take out the 2 screws lift and pull on the top panel. Undo the lid switch, remove the to 5/16" screws to the front panel, lift the front panel, and place it to the side. Undo the belt and remove the tub. There will be screws that on the outside of the tub that mount the baffles to the tub. Remove the screws to release the old baffle. Mount your new baffle and re-assemble your dryer.
If your dryer is squealing or really noisy:
There are 2, sometimes 4 drum rollers on these dryers, along with a tensioner pulley, blower wheel on the backside of the motor, and bearings in the motor. There is also front and rear felt, and depending on the model there could be a front plastic clip that snaps into the drum. All of these things could give you a lot of noise and the only way to determine the problem is to take it apart and manually inspect all of these parts. Using the same steps above lift the lid, remove the front panel, and pull out the drum. Once you have the drum out examine the front of the rear felt to make sure it hasn't come loose or been rusted. If it has been rusted and is hardened opposed to a softer felt feel to it, change the felt. You'll need the model number to make sure you get the right felt. You'll have to use a scraper or screw driver to get under the felt and then pull and use the tool to get it all the way off. The new felt should come with the correct glue to mount it. After you've put the felt on be sure to make sure the vent isn't plugged. A plugged up vent usually is what causes this problem. If the felt looks okay and, if present, the glides are still snapped in check the rollers located in the back of the inside of the cabinet, and on some models on the inside under the door. Manually spin each drum roller. If they aren't spinning freely you can either put some white lithium grease on them or replace them. Before you replace them be sure to check the supports that hold the rollers to make sure they have been damaged as well. If the drum rollers check out okay move onto the tensioner. Manually spin the pulley. If it doesn't spin freely replace it. There are whirlpool roller kits available that have 2 rollers, a belt, and a tensioner pulley if you want to replace it all. If all this checks out then you could have something in the blower housing or a bearing going out on the motor.
Gas Dryers
WARNING!!
Working with a gas dryer can be very dangerous. Please use extreme caution and make sure that the dryer is unplugged before any work is done. If you don’t know how to properly check for gas leads, do not remove the gas line. If you smell gas and aren’t able to find the leak, turn off the gas immediately, and call a professional to avoid injury or possible death. Use all precaution you can to protect yourself and those in your home.
The first thing we are going to look at is all the parts in your gas dryer working to give you heat. Make sure you get your model number off of the tag stamped on the dryer to get the correct parts for your dryer when you determine the problem. There is a power inlet cord that feeds 110-120vac electricity to all the parts in the dryer. The timer or control board is what is connecting the power to the appropriate parts through the cycle. The parts giving you heat vary model to model such as the number of thermostats, etc.. All are similar on in the order of operation. There is a gas valve that delivers the gas when the two wire coil of the two coils mounted on the top of the valve is energized once the thermostat mounted to the side of the flame tube reaches the correct temperature. The three wire coil mounted to the top of the valve is energized when the dryer timer is set on a heated selection and you press start, connecting power to the ignitor. There will be safety fuses to act as fail safes if the thermostats that control the temperature malfunction. The parts giving you your tumble and air flow during the cycle are the belt that runs over the tub, under the tensoiner pulley to hold the belt tight, and onto the motor pulley which gives you your spin. On the other shaft of the motor is the blower wheel that pulls the hot air over the clothes and out the vent giving the dryer the ability to dry the clothes. The parts ensuring a smooth sounding tumble will vary model to model. You could have two rollers on the back, plastic glides snapped to the tub, and a piece of felt on the front panel. Felt with glides on the front panel, rear bearing cup and assembly. Four rollers on the front and back panel with felt on the tub, etc..
Your gas dryer will not heat:
If your dryer won’t heat when you turn it on the 1st thing you’ll want to do is start the dryer in a heated selection and turn it on. Most dryers have a small square plastic piece located on the bottom left or right of the front panel, pop it out and you’ll be able to see inside of the cabinet and watch for the glow of the ignitor. If you don’t have a peep hole on your dryer what you’ll want to listen for is, immediately after you hit the start button on a heated selection on the timer you should hear a clunking sound. If you just hear the motor take off and no clunk, or dont’ see the glow from the ignitor for those who can look inside, then you’ve got one of several problems. You’ll need to figure out how to get into your dryer, we show you how in videos on our website. On gas dryers, unlike electric dryers order of operation, if the dryer is running and not heating you could have a thermal fuse issue. You’ll need to take your model number online to a parts dealer with a model look up to look through a parts breakdown of you dryer to find out which part is your thermal fuse it will have only 2 wires running to it. Once you’ve located your thermal fuse you can run an ohms or continuity test on the fuse. If you get no ohms then replace the fuse. Make sure before reapplying the vent and putting it back into regular use you clear the vent out completely from the inside to the outside. This is the most common cause of the thermal fuse malfunction. Also, get an oven thermometer or if you have a digital infared heat reader, which is best, and check the heat coming out of the back before putting the back panel on. You want 155F-170F deg coming out of the back of the dryer on a high temperature setting(test with no clothes in the drum and on timed dry selection on the timer). If the temperature is rising much higher than that you’ll need to replace the cycling thermostat which controls the temperature when operating.
If the thermal fuse gives a good ohms/continuity get the dryer to a place where you can power test the components inside of the cabinet minus the tub and with the font panel off. This is all relative to pressing the start button and not hearing a clunk or seeing a glow from the ignitor. You’ll need to make sure that the door switch is plugged in, no wires are grounded, and if your gas dryer has a tensioner safety switch disengage it. Plug the dryer in and press start start on a heated selection. Power test on vac at the three wire coil mounted to the top of the gas valve for 110-120vac. If your getting power and no glow from the ignitor, replace the coils.
Now if your hearing a clunk when you press start and aren’t seeing a glow from the ignitor:
This could be the ignitor, the gas coils, or the flame switch. This can be a bit tricky. If your dryer has a small plastic tab you can remove with the dryer together you can look inside to see if the ignitor is glowing or not. If the ignitor is not glowing. Unplug the dryer, take the dryer apart, tub out, door switch still plugged in, timer set to a heated selection, plug the dryer back in, and the dryer turned on. With a power tester check for 110-120vac at the 2 wires running to the ignitor. If your getting 110vac to the ignitor and no glow replace the ignitor.
If your getting a glow from the ignitor but the gas never comes on:
You’ll need to take the dryer apart to a point that you can power test at the flame switch. The flame switch is mounted on the side of the flame tube and is a black square part with two wires. If you get 110-120vac at the thermostat the ignitor glows and the gas never comes on and you still have the same power at the thermostat when the ignitor shuts off replace the flame switch.
When the flame is coming on and shutting off after a short time running:
Note: the flame should be on for 1 1/2-2 min when it 1st start, then come on to hold the correct temperature, 155f-175f deg if testing at the vent, thereafter. If the ignitor is glowing the flame is coming on and shutting off before getting hot enough, or not coming back on at all after the 1st time, replace the gas coils.
If the dryer is not getting hot enough by a little bit or just not getting the clothes dry enough:
1st clear out the vent from inside to outside to make sure its not just an air flow problem. You could have a cycling thermostat issue if its getting hot but just not hot enough. If your heat testing with an oven thermometer or laser thermal heat tester where the air is coming out of the back of the dryer with the vent off and no clothes in the dryer. You want 155-170f deg.. If its just not quite hot enough replace the cycling thermostat.
If the tub isn’t spinning or its noisy during spin:
You’ll need to to take the dryer apart and check you belt, rollers, and tensioner. Its best for regular maintenance to replace them all if you have a problem with 1. Due to the fact that these are you normal use wear and tear parts. Model to model they will be set up differently inside as far as the tub turning on felt with glides, # number of rollers, the style of tensioner, rear bearing set-up, etc.. The best way to find out what parts your dryer has inside to get an idea of how to take it apart, the parts ensuring a smooth sounding tumble, and what parts are working to give you heat is to come to our site and do a model number search and you’ll get a parts breakdown giving you direction before you tear into the dryer. This is just a general article mainly for the heating issue. Once again we have some videos on gas dryer repair at our site. Good luck on your repair.
Want to find out more about GAS DRYER REPAIR, then visit my site, become a member, and we’ll show you how to DO-IT-YOURSELF.
Working with a gas dryer can be very dangerous. Please use extreme caution and make sure that the dryer is unplugged before any work is done. If you don’t know how to properly check for gas leads, do not remove the gas line. If you smell gas and aren’t able to find the leak, turn off the gas immediately, and call a professional to avoid injury or possible death. Use all precaution you can to protect yourself and those in your home.
The first thing we are going to look at is all the parts in your gas dryer working to give you heat. Make sure you get your model number off of the tag stamped on the dryer to get the correct parts for your dryer when you determine the problem. There is a power inlet cord that feeds 110-120vac electricity to all the parts in the dryer. The timer or control board is what is connecting the power to the appropriate parts through the cycle. The parts giving you heat vary model to model such as the number of thermostats, etc.. All are similar on in the order of operation. There is a gas valve that delivers the gas when the two wire coil of the two coils mounted on the top of the valve is energized once the thermostat mounted to the side of the flame tube reaches the correct temperature. The three wire coil mounted to the top of the valve is energized when the dryer timer is set on a heated selection and you press start, connecting power to the ignitor. There will be safety fuses to act as fail safes if the thermostats that control the temperature malfunction. The parts giving you your tumble and air flow during the cycle are the belt that runs over the tub, under the tensoiner pulley to hold the belt tight, and onto the motor pulley which gives you your spin. On the other shaft of the motor is the blower wheel that pulls the hot air over the clothes and out the vent giving the dryer the ability to dry the clothes. The parts ensuring a smooth sounding tumble will vary model to model. You could have two rollers on the back, plastic glides snapped to the tub, and a piece of felt on the front panel. Felt with glides on the front panel, rear bearing cup and assembly. Four rollers on the front and back panel with felt on the tub, etc..
Your gas dryer will not heat:
If your dryer won’t heat when you turn it on the 1st thing you’ll want to do is start the dryer in a heated selection and turn it on. Most dryers have a small square plastic piece located on the bottom left or right of the front panel, pop it out and you’ll be able to see inside of the cabinet and watch for the glow of the ignitor. If you don’t have a peep hole on your dryer what you’ll want to listen for is, immediately after you hit the start button on a heated selection on the timer you should hear a clunking sound. If you just hear the motor take off and no clunk, or dont’ see the glow from the ignitor for those who can look inside, then you’ve got one of several problems. You’ll need to figure out how to get into your dryer, we show you how in videos on our website. On gas dryers, unlike electric dryers order of operation, if the dryer is running and not heating you could have a thermal fuse issue. You’ll need to take your model number online to a parts dealer with a model look up to look through a parts breakdown of you dryer to find out which part is your thermal fuse it will have only 2 wires running to it. Once you’ve located your thermal fuse you can run an ohms or continuity test on the fuse. If you get no ohms then replace the fuse. Make sure before reapplying the vent and putting it back into regular use you clear the vent out completely from the inside to the outside. This is the most common cause of the thermal fuse malfunction. Also, get an oven thermometer or if you have a digital infared heat reader, which is best, and check the heat coming out of the back before putting the back panel on. You want 155F-170F deg coming out of the back of the dryer on a high temperature setting(test with no clothes in the drum and on timed dry selection on the timer). If the temperature is rising much higher than that you’ll need to replace the cycling thermostat which controls the temperature when operating.
If the thermal fuse gives a good ohms/continuity get the dryer to a place where you can power test the components inside of the cabinet minus the tub and with the font panel off. This is all relative to pressing the start button and not hearing a clunk or seeing a glow from the ignitor. You’ll need to make sure that the door switch is plugged in, no wires are grounded, and if your gas dryer has a tensioner safety switch disengage it. Plug the dryer in and press start start on a heated selection. Power test on vac at the three wire coil mounted to the top of the gas valve for 110-120vac. If your getting power and no glow from the ignitor, replace the coils.
Now if your hearing a clunk when you press start and aren’t seeing a glow from the ignitor:
This could be the ignitor, the gas coils, or the flame switch. This can be a bit tricky. If your dryer has a small plastic tab you can remove with the dryer together you can look inside to see if the ignitor is glowing or not. If the ignitor is not glowing. Unplug the dryer, take the dryer apart, tub out, door switch still plugged in, timer set to a heated selection, plug the dryer back in, and the dryer turned on. With a power tester check for 110-120vac at the 2 wires running to the ignitor. If your getting 110vac to the ignitor and no glow replace the ignitor.
If your getting a glow from the ignitor but the gas never comes on:
You’ll need to take the dryer apart to a point that you can power test at the flame switch. The flame switch is mounted on the side of the flame tube and is a black square part with two wires. If you get 110-120vac at the thermostat the ignitor glows and the gas never comes on and you still have the same power at the thermostat when the ignitor shuts off replace the flame switch.
When the flame is coming on and shutting off after a short time running:
Note: the flame should be on for 1 1/2-2 min when it 1st start, then come on to hold the correct temperature, 155f-175f deg if testing at the vent, thereafter. If the ignitor is glowing the flame is coming on and shutting off before getting hot enough, or not coming back on at all after the 1st time, replace the gas coils.
If the dryer is not getting hot enough by a little bit or just not getting the clothes dry enough:
1st clear out the vent from inside to outside to make sure its not just an air flow problem. You could have a cycling thermostat issue if its getting hot but just not hot enough. If your heat testing with an oven thermometer or laser thermal heat tester where the air is coming out of the back of the dryer with the vent off and no clothes in the dryer. You want 155-170f deg.. If its just not quite hot enough replace the cycling thermostat.
If the tub isn’t spinning or its noisy during spin:
You’ll need to to take the dryer apart and check you belt, rollers, and tensioner. Its best for regular maintenance to replace them all if you have a problem with 1. Due to the fact that these are you normal use wear and tear parts. Model to model they will be set up differently inside as far as the tub turning on felt with glides, # number of rollers, the style of tensioner, rear bearing set-up, etc.. The best way to find out what parts your dryer has inside to get an idea of how to take it apart, the parts ensuring a smooth sounding tumble, and what parts are working to give you heat is to come to our site and do a model number search and you’ll get a parts breakdown giving you direction before you tear into the dryer. This is just a general article mainly for the heating issue. Once again we have some videos on gas dryer repair at our site. Good luck on your repair.
Want to find out more about GAS DRYER REPAIR, then visit my site, become a member, and we’ll show you how to DO-IT-YOURSELF.
REFRIGERATORS
Today refrigerators are a necessity for most. Our company gives them priority over other calls so the customer doesn't lose their food. A lot of problems are pretty obvious. Other problem can sometimes be complicated to catch, due to the fact that the customer complaint is usually the same. "It's not cooling correctly, every once in a while this happens, or we hear this noise sometimes, but don't know where it's coming from on the refrigerator." It may take 1 or 2 trips to catch the problem while it's happening. Sometimes we just have to wait till it gets worse and is happening more often. Our company with these problems will only charge a person 1 service charge and when we do catch the problem, will then charge for whatever parts are required.
It's a good idea to keep a thermometer in the freezer section, you want 0-+10 degrees fahrenheit. It's commonly thought that the refrigerator section of the refrigerator cools itself. This is true on some models if you want that option for a bit more money. On most refrigerators the freezer section is the section that cools both sides. Ice cream in the freezer is another early sign that you have a problem. If it isn't freezing to a point that the ice cream hardened, then something's going on. Another simple thing to check is for proper installation. When it was delivered did they raise the refrigerator adjustable legs or rollers to give you approximately 1/8" fall from the front of the refrigerator to back, or enough fall to allow the refrigerator door to swing shut by itself? If the door is not swinging shut on its own from about half way open, you can get a level and tape measure to get the correct amount of fall as you raise the front legs or adjustable rollers located, behind the kick panel, below the refrigerator door. You will need the help of someone to tilt the refrigerator back for you. As you raise the refrigerator place the level on the top of the refrigerator running from front to back. Now find 1/8" on your tape measure, place the end of the tape against the top of the refrigerator towards the back of the level. Lift the back of the level up until the level reads level. When you see your at level, look at where you are on the tape measure. That will give you the measurement of fall.
Another regular problem is ice continues to build in the bottom of the freezer section, and water keeps running onto the floor, or into the refrigerator. The difference on where the water is appearing is going to be the style of refrigerator you have(upright, s x s, french door). The refrigerator has a defrost cycle, as part of the today frost-free designs. It also comes with a drain for the frost melted off during this cycle. First things first, unplug the refrigerator. We don't want to see you get a shock in the mouth. That would hurt! Now you take all your food out of the freezer and remove the panel located in the back of the freezer section. You will then have access to the defrost drain. You should see a lot of ice built up below the aluminum evaporator coils. The evaporator coils look similar to a radiator on a car. As carefully as you can break away as much ice as you can, you don't want to pierce the wall of the freezer. Then what i use is the same 1/4" tube that runs to the ice maker if present on your refrigerator. Fill a large cup with warm water, keep a few large towels handy. Fill your mouth with the water and guide the hose with your hand in the area of the drain hole. Start at the drain hole so when you start working on the other areas built up with ice the water will have somewhere to go. Once you clear an area well enough you should be able to gently get a screw driver under the surrounding areas with ice. After you've completed the task re-assemble and turn the refrigerator back on. If you have to do this more than once call a technician, they have access to defrost drain heaters to eliminate this from happening over and over. This drain heater ties into the fan wires so that anytime the fan is running(cooling), the heater is on keeping ice from freezing up the drain.
If your refrigerator is running all the time and you've already checked your condenser coils. Check your seals on both the refrigerator and freezer section for a proper seal. Clean the seal off the best you can with some and a dish scrubber. After all the gooey, discolored material has been scrubbed off take a wash rag over it with water only to get all the soap off. Refrigerators seals have a tendency to get food or liquids on them as you traffic in and out of them. Another thing to look for is a frost build-up on the back panel of the freezer. If you see this happening and can't get anyone to come quick enough to save your food. Take all the food out of the freezer and remove the back panel. Sometimes the frost has been building up for a while and to remove the screws you'll have to melt away some ice first. I use a hair dryer to defrost the freezer, so if your lucky enough to have an amazing wife in the house. Steal one of her favorite tools, melt away the ice to the back panel screws, remove it, and blow dry all the ice away. This is only a temporary fix until a technician can properly fix it. It will cool for you approximately a week and a half or two weeks before it builds up again. You can expect it to need a defrost thermostat, defrost timer, or defrost heater. If you look at the back panel and see no frost built up. Pull the refrigerator out, make sure the fan in the freezer is running. If it is then that means the compressor should be running. Take the panel off of the back of the refrigerator exposing the compressor and the condenser fan. Check the condenser fan to see if its working, If it is then check the compressor to see if its running. If the condenser fan is locked up replace it or clear away anything that might be keeping it from blowing. If the compressor is not running, but all the fans are running. Feel the compressor, if its warm unplug the refrigerator. Replace the relay it should take right off and cool back down in about a days time. We always replace the original relay with a RCO410 Hard Start Relay just in case the compressor is making the relay work a little harder than it did when it was new. If compressor is cold, unplug the refrigerator. Remove the relay from the terminals. Once removed you'll see 3 terminals on the side of the compressor. At this point you'll need a digital multimeter or an analog ohms meter. You'll be testing for ohms or continuity between all variations terminal-to-terminal. If you get ohms or continuity between all scratch some paint off of the compressor. With one probe on the bare spot of the compressor, take the other probe to each terminal on the compressor. You want infinite (0) ohms or no continuity. If you get no continuity replace the relay with a RCO410 Hard Start Relay. If there is continuity or ohms with this test you'll need a professional for a compressor change. If all fans are running and the compressor is running you could have a freon problem and will require a technician to properly fix the problem. The EPA requires certification for anything that is reasonably expected to release freon into the air.
Another regular problem is ice continues to build in the bottom of the freezer section, and water keeps running onto the floor, or into the refrigerator. On a SxS refrigerator the water will leak out of the freezer onto the floor and the ice in the bottom of the freezer will be visible. On an upright the water will appear in the refrigerator section on the top shelf and eventually onto the floor out of the ref section. On a french door style the water will appear on the floor under the freezer door and the ice in the bottom of the freezer section. The refrigerator has a defrost cycle, as part of the today frost-free designs. It also comes with a drain for the frost melted off during this cycle. First things first, unplug the refrigerator. We don't want to see you get a shock. Now you take all your food out of the freezer and remove the panel located in the back of the freezer section. You will then have access to the defrost drain. You should see a lot of ice built up below the aluminum evaporator coils. The evaporator coils look similar to a radiator on a car. Very gently break away as much ice as you can, being extra careful, so you don't pierce the wall of the freezer. Then what i use is the same 1/4" tube that runs to the ice maker if present on your refrigerator. Fill a large cup with warm water, keep a few large towels handy. Fill your mouth with the water and guide the hose with your hand in the area of the drain hole. Start at the drain hole so when you start working on the other areas built up with ice the water will have somewhere to go. Once you clear an area well enough you should be able to gently get a screw driver under the surrounding areas with ice. After you've completed the job re-assemble and turn the refrigerator back on. If you have to do this more than once call a technician, they have access to defrost drain heaters to eliminate this from happening again and again. This drain heater ties into the the fan wires so that anytime the fan is running(cooling), the heater is on keeping ice from freezing up the drain.
If your refrigerator is running all the time and you've already checked your condenser coils. Check your seals on both the refrigerator and freezer section for a proper seal. Clean the seal off the best you can with some soap and a dish scrubber. After you've got it fairly cleaned off run a rag over it with water only to get all the soap off. Refrigerators seals have a tendency to get food or liquids on them as you traffic in and out of them. Another thing to look for is a frost build-up on the back panel of the freezer. If you see this happening and can't get anyone to come quick enough to save your food. Take all the food out of the freezer and remove the back panel. Sometimes the frost has been building up for a while and to remove the screws you'll have to melt away some ice first. I use a hair dryer to defrost the freezer. So steal one of your wives favorite tools, melt away the ice to the back panel screws, remove it, and blow dry all the ice away. This is only a temporary fix until a repairman can properly fix it. It will cool for you up to two weeks before it builds up again. You can expect it to need a defrost thermostat, defrost timer, or defrost heater. If you look at the back panel and see no frost built up. Pull the refrigerator out, make sure the fan in the freezer is running. If it is then that means the compressor should be running. Take the panel off of the back of the refrigerator exposing the compressor and the condenser fan. Check the condenser fan to see if its working, If it is then check the compressor to see if its running. If the condenser fan is locked up replace it or clear away anything that might be keeping it from blowing. If the compressor is not running, but all the fans are running. Feel the compressor, if its warm unplug the refrigerator. Replace the relay it should take right off and cool back down in about a days time. We always replace the original relay with a RCO410 Hard Start Relay just in case the compressor is making the relay work a little harder than it did when it was new. If compressor is cold, unplug the refrigerator. Remove the relay from the terminals. Once removed you'll see 3 terminals on the side of the compressor. At this point you'll need a digital multimeter or an analog ohms meter. You'll be testing for ohms or continuity between all variations terminal-to-terminal. If you get ohms or continuity between all scratch some paint off of the compressor. With one probe on the bare spot of the compressor, take the other probe to each terminal on the compressor. You want infinite (0) ohms or no continuity. If you get no continuity replace the relay with a RCO410 Hard Start Relay. If there is continuity or ohms with this test you'll need a professional for a compressor change. If all fans are running and the compressor is running you could have a freon problem and will require a technician to properly fix the problem. The EPA requires certification for anything that is reasonably expected to release freon into the air.
Knowing these answers will help the technician if you have to call:
- What problem are you experiencing?
- Has the problem came on all of the sudden or gradually?
- If the refrigerator is occasionally thawing out:
- When it is thawing, is the fan in the freezer running or not?
- If there is a noise:
- When do you hear the noise? When the refrigerator stops and starts the cooling cycle?
- If the refrigerator is making a noise while the fans are running try your best to determine where it is coming from. Inside of the refrigerator or in the area of the compressor.
- What have you personally done to try to eliminate the problem? Did it work, or not?
Note: The more information you can give the technician about the problem, the more likely the technician can properly diagnose the problem.
It's a good idea to keep a thermometer in the freezer section, you want 0-+10 degrees fahrenheit. It's commonly thought that the refrigerator section of the refrigerator cools itself. This is true on some models if you want that option for a bit more money. On most refrigerators the freezer section is the section that cools both sides. Ice cream in the freezer is another early sign that you have a problem. If it isn't freezing to a point that the ice cream hardened, then something's going on. Another simple thing to check is for proper installation. When it was delivered did they raise the refrigerator adjustable legs or rollers to give you approximately 1/8" fall from the front of the refrigerator to back, or enough fall to allow the refrigerator door to swing shut by itself? If the door is not swinging shut on its own from about half way open, you can get a level and tape measure to get the correct amount of fall as you raise the front legs or adjustable rollers located, behind the kick panel, below the refrigerator door. You will need the help of someone to tilt the refrigerator back for you. As you raise the refrigerator place the level on the top of the refrigerator running from front to back. Now find 1/8" on your tape measure, place the end of the tape against the top of the refrigerator towards the back of the level. Lift the back of the level up until the level reads level. When you see your at level, look at where you are on the tape measure. That will give you the measurement of fall.
Another regular problem is ice continues to build in the bottom of the freezer section, and water keeps running onto the floor, or into the refrigerator. The difference on where the water is appearing is going to be the style of refrigerator you have(upright, s x s, french door). The refrigerator has a defrost cycle, as part of the today frost-free designs. It also comes with a drain for the frost melted off during this cycle. First things first, unplug the refrigerator. We don't want to see you get a shock in the mouth. That would hurt! Now you take all your food out of the freezer and remove the panel located in the back of the freezer section. You will then have access to the defrost drain. You should see a lot of ice built up below the aluminum evaporator coils. The evaporator coils look similar to a radiator on a car. As carefully as you can break away as much ice as you can, you don't want to pierce the wall of the freezer. Then what i use is the same 1/4" tube that runs to the ice maker if present on your refrigerator. Fill a large cup with warm water, keep a few large towels handy. Fill your mouth with the water and guide the hose with your hand in the area of the drain hole. Start at the drain hole so when you start working on the other areas built up with ice the water will have somewhere to go. Once you clear an area well enough you should be able to gently get a screw driver under the surrounding areas with ice. After you've completed the task re-assemble and turn the refrigerator back on. If you have to do this more than once call a technician, they have access to defrost drain heaters to eliminate this from happening over and over. This drain heater ties into the fan wires so that anytime the fan is running(cooling), the heater is on keeping ice from freezing up the drain.
If your refrigerator is running all the time and you've already checked your condenser coils. Check your seals on both the refrigerator and freezer section for a proper seal. Clean the seal off the best you can with some and a dish scrubber. After all the gooey, discolored material has been scrubbed off take a wash rag over it with water only to get all the soap off. Refrigerators seals have a tendency to get food or liquids on them as you traffic in and out of them. Another thing to look for is a frost build-up on the back panel of the freezer. If you see this happening and can't get anyone to come quick enough to save your food. Take all the food out of the freezer and remove the back panel. Sometimes the frost has been building up for a while and to remove the screws you'll have to melt away some ice first. I use a hair dryer to defrost the freezer, so if your lucky enough to have an amazing wife in the house. Steal one of her favorite tools, melt away the ice to the back panel screws, remove it, and blow dry all the ice away. This is only a temporary fix until a technician can properly fix it. It will cool for you approximately a week and a half or two weeks before it builds up again. You can expect it to need a defrost thermostat, defrost timer, or defrost heater. If you look at the back panel and see no frost built up. Pull the refrigerator out, make sure the fan in the freezer is running. If it is then that means the compressor should be running. Take the panel off of the back of the refrigerator exposing the compressor and the condenser fan. Check the condenser fan to see if its working, If it is then check the compressor to see if its running. If the condenser fan is locked up replace it or clear away anything that might be keeping it from blowing. If the compressor is not running, but all the fans are running. Feel the compressor, if its warm unplug the refrigerator. Replace the relay it should take right off and cool back down in about a days time. We always replace the original relay with a RCO410 Hard Start Relay just in case the compressor is making the relay work a little harder than it did when it was new. If compressor is cold, unplug the refrigerator. Remove the relay from the terminals. Once removed you'll see 3 terminals on the side of the compressor. At this point you'll need a digital multimeter or an analog ohms meter. You'll be testing for ohms or continuity between all variations terminal-to-terminal. If you get ohms or continuity between all scratch some paint off of the compressor. With one probe on the bare spot of the compressor, take the other probe to each terminal on the compressor. You want infinite (0) ohms or no continuity. If you get no continuity replace the relay with a RCO410 Hard Start Relay. If there is continuity or ohms with this test you'll need a professional for a compressor change. If all fans are running and the compressor is running you could have a freon problem and will require a technician to properly fix the problem. The EPA requires certification for anything that is reasonably expected to release freon into the air.
Another regular problem is ice continues to build in the bottom of the freezer section, and water keeps running onto the floor, or into the refrigerator. On a SxS refrigerator the water will leak out of the freezer onto the floor and the ice in the bottom of the freezer will be visible. On an upright the water will appear in the refrigerator section on the top shelf and eventually onto the floor out of the ref section. On a french door style the water will appear on the floor under the freezer door and the ice in the bottom of the freezer section. The refrigerator has a defrost cycle, as part of the today frost-free designs. It also comes with a drain for the frost melted off during this cycle. First things first, unplug the refrigerator. We don't want to see you get a shock. Now you take all your food out of the freezer and remove the panel located in the back of the freezer section. You will then have access to the defrost drain. You should see a lot of ice built up below the aluminum evaporator coils. The evaporator coils look similar to a radiator on a car. Very gently break away as much ice as you can, being extra careful, so you don't pierce the wall of the freezer. Then what i use is the same 1/4" tube that runs to the ice maker if present on your refrigerator. Fill a large cup with warm water, keep a few large towels handy. Fill your mouth with the water and guide the hose with your hand in the area of the drain hole. Start at the drain hole so when you start working on the other areas built up with ice the water will have somewhere to go. Once you clear an area well enough you should be able to gently get a screw driver under the surrounding areas with ice. After you've completed the job re-assemble and turn the refrigerator back on. If you have to do this more than once call a technician, they have access to defrost drain heaters to eliminate this from happening again and again. This drain heater ties into the the fan wires so that anytime the fan is running(cooling), the heater is on keeping ice from freezing up the drain.
If your refrigerator is running all the time and you've already checked your condenser coils. Check your seals on both the refrigerator and freezer section for a proper seal. Clean the seal off the best you can with some soap and a dish scrubber. After you've got it fairly cleaned off run a rag over it with water only to get all the soap off. Refrigerators seals have a tendency to get food or liquids on them as you traffic in and out of them. Another thing to look for is a frost build-up on the back panel of the freezer. If you see this happening and can't get anyone to come quick enough to save your food. Take all the food out of the freezer and remove the back panel. Sometimes the frost has been building up for a while and to remove the screws you'll have to melt away some ice first. I use a hair dryer to defrost the freezer. So steal one of your wives favorite tools, melt away the ice to the back panel screws, remove it, and blow dry all the ice away. This is only a temporary fix until a repairman can properly fix it. It will cool for you up to two weeks before it builds up again. You can expect it to need a defrost thermostat, defrost timer, or defrost heater. If you look at the back panel and see no frost built up. Pull the refrigerator out, make sure the fan in the freezer is running. If it is then that means the compressor should be running. Take the panel off of the back of the refrigerator exposing the compressor and the condenser fan. Check the condenser fan to see if its working, If it is then check the compressor to see if its running. If the condenser fan is locked up replace it or clear away anything that might be keeping it from blowing. If the compressor is not running, but all the fans are running. Feel the compressor, if its warm unplug the refrigerator. Replace the relay it should take right off and cool back down in about a days time. We always replace the original relay with a RCO410 Hard Start Relay just in case the compressor is making the relay work a little harder than it did when it was new. If compressor is cold, unplug the refrigerator. Remove the relay from the terminals. Once removed you'll see 3 terminals on the side of the compressor. At this point you'll need a digital multimeter or an analog ohms meter. You'll be testing for ohms or continuity between all variations terminal-to-terminal. If you get ohms or continuity between all scratch some paint off of the compressor. With one probe on the bare spot of the compressor, take the other probe to each terminal on the compressor. You want infinite (0) ohms or no continuity. If you get no continuity replace the relay with a RCO410 Hard Start Relay. If there is continuity or ohms with this test you'll need a professional for a compressor change. If all fans are running and the compressor is running you could have a freon problem and will require a technician to properly fix the problem. The EPA requires certification for anything that is reasonably expected to release freon into the air.
Knowing these answers will help the technician if you have to call:
- What problem are you experiencing?
- Has the problem came on all of the sudden or gradually?
- If the refrigerator is occasionally thawing out:
- When it is thawing, is the fan in the freezer running or not?
- If there is a noise:
- When do you hear the noise? When the refrigerator stops and starts the cooling cycle?
- If the refrigerator is making a noise while the fans are running try your best to determine where it is coming from. Inside of the refrigerator or in the area of the compressor.
- What have you personally done to try to eliminate the problem? Did it work, or not?
Note: The more information you can give the technician about the problem, the more likely the technician can properly diagnose the problem.
repairing your newer style whirlpool, Kenmore, some new maytag top load washer
First thing you'll need to know is how to get into your washer:
- Unplug your washer before doing any kind of repair. Depending on how old or new your washer is will determine how you take it apart. The older of the new style Whirlpool and Kenmore will have screws visible on the bottom of the panel the timer is located on. Remove the screw and lift the panel. A little newer Whirpool and Kenmore washers have the screws of the back side of the panel the timer is on. Pull it away from the wall far enough to stretch your head back. You'll find a screw on the far left and right side of the panel ran into the cabinet. Remove the screws, lift the panel. On the newest style Whirlpool, Kenmore, and Maytag washers you'll need to get a puddy knife. Looking at the front of the washer timer panel there are to clips located on the far left and right side, not visible, between the timer panel and the top of the cabinet. Push on the panel slightly, slide your puddy knife on under until you feel your clip. Apply pressure to the clip and lift up on the panel until it releases. Once you've release both clips and the panel is lifter up your ready for the next step. Now undo your lid switch wiring. If you need to test your work before putting the cabinet back on, you will need to by-pass the lid switch. Go to the wire harness that runs to the lid switch on the cabinet. You will see a ground wire(green) and two other wires (usually gray and tan). Find a small wire and with wire strippers, strip both ends back a 1/4". Insert one end in the gray, one end in the tan(or w/e colors wires your washer has). Do not insert a wire in the green wire. Now you'll be able to turn the timer on and make sure there are no problems before you completely re-assemble the washer. After you've undone the lid switch harness, you'll see two brackets that snap into the cabinet and hook to the back panel. Take a screwdriver, insert it into the hooks where it is fastened to the cabinet, push and pry away from you. The brackets will pop loose and your ready to remove your cabinet.
These washer are a direct drive set up. Once you've removed your cabinet, the parts in order you'll see working to give you spin, agitation, and pump out are:
- The motor driven pump (3363394), fastened by two clips to the motor. The motor(you'll need your model # to get the right motor), fastened by two clips, with either 1/4" or or 5/16" head screws to the transmission. The motor coupling (285753), mounts on both the shaft of the motor and the transmission with a round rubber coupler. The transmission (3360629), fastened to the cradle of the washer with 3 half inch bolts. On top of the transmission is a clutch (285785), fastened to the transmission by a small clip, a c-clip and a washer that sits on top of the c-clip for protection while spinning. The transmission slides into the basket-drive assembly(285792), which is inserted into a drive block (389140) that sits between the spin tube and the inner tub. A spanner nut (21366) screws on to the drive block fastening the spin tub to the drive block. Now inside the tub is a small white piece and a clip on the shaft of the of the transmission to hold the piece in place. The agitator is mounted by a bolt located under the agitator cap, which you can pull of by hand, or use a screw driver in the designated slot for a screw driver. Once you've removed the cap, there is cap barrier, which has two pieces designed on it to put your fingers in a pull. The newer style Whirpool, Sears, and Maytag have a two piece agitator. Some of the older style whirlpool and sears have this agitator as well. Now that you know the set up lets get to some of the problems they have.
If the washer's agitator is not agitating anymore:
- Inside of the agitator is a cam with little agitator dogs that catch on some ridges on the inside of the agitator allowing the agitator to agitate correctly. Some of the older models don't have a two piece agitator with these dogs inside. If your having this problem you'll need a ratchet and some 6" + extension, and a 7/16" socket. Remove the cap from the agitator, pull the agitator barrier out, undo the 7/16" bolt, and pull out the agitator. Place both feet on the bottom of the agitator, with the agitator sitting on the ground, and pull on the top of the agitator to release the two pieces. You sometimes have to pull very hard, don't be scared. Inside there's a driven cam with agitator clutch dogs(a.k.a.agitator dogs) that give your agitator the ability to wash the clothes thoroughly. Once you've pulled the agitator apart the cam will just fall out into your hand. Remove the old dogs and re-assemble the agitator.
If the washer will fill and, depending on the make and age of the washer, won't agitate or spin. In other words has no power when it comes time to agitate or spin:
- When i say won't agitate or spin i mean that the motor is not running and it won't advance through the cycle. You'll first want to check your lid switch. Usually you'll hear the lid switch clicking as you raise and lower the lid. If your not hearing that, locate your lid switch. This can be found on the right side of the top of the cabinet where the lid shuts. On other models it can be found under the control panel. Examine it to make sure that it hasn't been broken and is no longer able to be mounted where it is to make contact. if it is still mounted, but your not sure if its working right. The easiest way to cross it off as a problem is to find the harness that connects to the lid switches harness. 1st unplug the washer. Take a 5 or 6 in. piece of wire, or a paper clip. On this harness is 3 wires, green, usually gray and tan. If your using a piece of wire, cut the wire back 1/4" on each end, and insert one end in the a tan and one in gray. Do not insert into the green. Make sure no exposed wire are touching anything grounded, plug the washer in, put the timer to spin. If it takes off into spin replace the lid switch.
Now if your washer will fill, but when it tries to advance into agitation all you hear is a hum:
- Unplug the washer. Remove the cabinet from the washer. Remove the pump clips and pull the pump off of the motor. With a larger ended flat head screwdriver, try to manually spin the pump. If the pump doesn't spin manually you'll need to remove the clamps on the hoses running to the pump. Have something ready to fill with the excess water left in the bottom of the tub and hoses, or several large towels. Once the hoses are off look inside the pump for something jamming it up. If there is nothing there, replace the pump. If it spins freely remove the screws and clips from the motor. Pull the motor, with the wiring harness still attached, out to the floor as far as the wires will allow without stressing the harness. Now go through the steps in the 1st paragraph to by-pass the lid switch. With the lid switch by-passed, the pump off of the motor, and the motor free from the transmission. Put the timer into spin and start it. If the motor still hums replace it. If the motor takes takes off then you know the motor is okay. You could have something stuck between the inner and outer tub or the transmission itself is locked up. You'll need the whirlpool spanner wrench to check between the tubs. There is a spanner nut that screws onto the nut block to secure the inner tub in it's place. If you don't want to get a spanner wrench another way you can determine which is the problem is to remove the agitator from the inner tub. Take the agitator cap off, remove the agitator barrier, and the bolt fastening it to the shaft of the transmission. Underneath the agitator remember to remove the clip and the white piece now visible on the shaft of the transmission. Now undo the 1/2" bolts that fasten the transmission to the cradle. Once all bolts are out the transmission you are able to drop the transmission out of spin tub, freeing the clutch from the basket drive. Now try to manually spin the motor coupling on the transmission. If you can't get it to spin, replace the transmission. If it will spin minus, being attached to the tub, you may need to get the spanner wrench(search Google to buy one) so you can remove the inner spin basket check for something not allowing it to spin.
If the your hear a loud noise when your washer tries to agitate or spin, but your getting no movement from the tub:
- You probably need a motor coupling. You won't know otherwise until you take the cabinet off of the washer off, remove the pump, and the motor. using the same steps as stated in previous paragraphs. Now that your motor coupling is visible. Examine it, usually its pretty obviously broken, sometimes its bored out in the center of the coupling. If it is replace the motor coupling. I use a 1/2 in. nut driver and a hammer to tap the each piece of the motor coupling onto the shaft of the tranny and the motor. Tap it on until there is approximately 1/16 in. gap left to go. If you go to far, the plastic motor coupling pieces will dig into the rubber piece. If the motor coupling is okay you may need a transmission or a clutch. Go a step further removing the agitator and the (3) 1/2" bolts on the transmission. Once you've dropped the transmission out of the spin tube, you're ready to inspect the clutch sitting on top of the transmission. If the clutch is extremely worn replace it. An obvious sign that the transmission is the problem is transmission oil splatter all over the inside cabinet wall and the floor under the washer.
If your getting a lot of excessive shaking from your washer:
- You should first consider the shape the floor is in supporting the washer. If you feel its not the problem, remove the cabinet of the washer. The cradle that supports the outer tub has three glides on it. If these glides are worn then the metal cradle is rubbing against the metal tub support and will shake excessively in spin. If you lift up on the metal that the outer tub is mounted to should be able to see the glides. If they are worn replace them. They have tabs on them, from underneath push on them and they will pop out. The new ones will snap right in. Make sure you are level when done and try it out with a load in it.
If your washer won't fill:
- Try the water temp on both cold and hot. If you get water on one and not the other, get access to the fill valve by removing the cabinet or lifting the timer control panel. Put the temp select to the water temp that's not working, turn the timer on. With a power tester test the solenoids on the fill valve for 120vac. If you have power and no water. Turn the shut off the water valves, undo your inlet hoses, remembering which one goes where. Check the screens inside the fill valve to make sure they aren't plugged with rust or w/e else might be in your water. If they are clear replace the fill valve. If there is no power to the valve you could have a timer or temp select problem.
If your washer is overflowing:
- It could be one of two things, the pressure tube has come off, or the fill valve solenoid is not closing when the washer is full. 1st the fill valve. You'll probably know if the fill valve is the issue because when you try to stop the water by turning off the timer it doesn't stop coming in. Turn the water valve off that continues to fill that is the case replace the fill valve using the steps in the above paragraph. If your washer is overfilling and you turn the timer off and the water stops coming in. Remove the cabinet from the washer. look around the outside of the tub for a small tube running from the control panel area, and should connect to a piece on the side of the outer tub. If this has come loose, or become clogged with gunk the washer will continue to fill, unable to engage the pressure switch that shuts the water off. If it has come off of its designated spot on the side of the tub(this will be a small, plastic square protruding from the outer tub, with a small round insert on top of it). Look inside the hose to make sure it hasn't accumulated material inside that will block the pressure to the switch. You can use an ice pick or long very small ended flat head screw driver the won't stretch the hose further. If it looks okay, before re-applying the tube, cut it back 1/4" so it fits tight on the piece its designed for. Over time they loose the elasticity they once had when it was first applied. If the tube hasn't come loose, track it up to the pressure switch to make sure it hasn't been kinked. If there is no kink, the hose hasn't fallen off, and there is no build-up in the hose. You may need a new pressure switch.
If your washer won't spin out the clothes well enough:
- Sometimes with this problem, people mistakenly think the dryer is not getting the clothes dry in same amount of time it used to, or taking 2 times to get them dry. Remove the agitator from the inner tub, the cabinet from the washer, tip the washer back so you'll have room to drop the transmission. Remove the pump from the motor, the motor from the transmission, and the (3) half inch bolts from the transmission. At this point the transmission will be ready to pull out of the spin tube. On top of the transmission is the clutch. A thrust spacer covering a c-clip and a clutch retainer clip that mount the clutch to the transmission. using a flat head screw driver remove the 2 clips and put on the new clutch. Re-assemble the washer and your ready to wash again.
If your washer is agitating as it is spinning:
- Go the the same steps as replacing the clutch. Only this time replace the transmission Its a good idea whenever you replace the transmission to replace the clutch as well. Unless, before the current problem that turned you on to a transmission as a problem, the Clothes were coming out of spin very dry. If your washer is several years old you might also change the motor coupling while changing the transmission. The motor coupling is a part that endures normal use wear and tear and is usually one of the main reasons we get call on these style of washers.
If your having issues with the timer, such as the one cycle doesn't work or the timer won't stay engaged:
- If one cycle doesn't work the only advice i can give you is to change the timer. If the timer doesn't stay engaged when you pull the knob. On models with a plastic timer there is a small white piece on the back of the timer. Gain access to the timer by lifting up the control panel. On the back there is a small white (sometimes black) clip that might have fallen out of place. If it is snap it back in and see how it works. If its not replace the timer.
- Unplug your washer before doing any kind of repair. Depending on how old or new your washer is will determine how you take it apart. The older of the new style Whirlpool and Kenmore will have screws visible on the bottom of the panel the timer is located on. Remove the screw and lift the panel. A little newer Whirpool and Kenmore washers have the screws of the back side of the panel the timer is on. Pull it away from the wall far enough to stretch your head back. You'll find a screw on the far left and right side of the panel ran into the cabinet. Remove the screws, lift the panel. On the newest style Whirlpool, Kenmore, and Maytag washers you'll need to get a puddy knife. Looking at the front of the washer timer panel there are to clips located on the far left and right side, not visible, between the timer panel and the top of the cabinet. Push on the panel slightly, slide your puddy knife on under until you feel your clip. Apply pressure to the clip and lift up on the panel until it releases. Once you've release both clips and the panel is lifter up your ready for the next step. Now undo your lid switch wiring. If you need to test your work before putting the cabinet back on, you will need to by-pass the lid switch. Go to the wire harness that runs to the lid switch on the cabinet. You will see a ground wire(green) and two other wires (usually gray and tan). Find a small wire and with wire strippers, strip both ends back a 1/4". Insert one end in the gray, one end in the tan(or w/e colors wires your washer has). Do not insert a wire in the green wire. Now you'll be able to turn the timer on and make sure there are no problems before you completely re-assemble the washer. After you've undone the lid switch harness, you'll see two brackets that snap into the cabinet and hook to the back panel. Take a screwdriver, insert it into the hooks where it is fastened to the cabinet, push and pry away from you. The brackets will pop loose and your ready to remove your cabinet.
These washer are a direct drive set up. Once you've removed your cabinet, the parts in order you'll see working to give you spin, agitation, and pump out are:
- The motor driven pump (3363394), fastened by two clips to the motor. The motor(you'll need your model # to get the right motor), fastened by two clips, with either 1/4" or or 5/16" head screws to the transmission. The motor coupling (285753), mounts on both the shaft of the motor and the transmission with a round rubber coupler. The transmission (3360629), fastened to the cradle of the washer with 3 half inch bolts. On top of the transmission is a clutch (285785), fastened to the transmission by a small clip, a c-clip and a washer that sits on top of the c-clip for protection while spinning. The transmission slides into the basket-drive assembly(285792), which is inserted into a drive block (389140) that sits between the spin tube and the inner tub. A spanner nut (21366) screws on to the drive block fastening the spin tub to the drive block. Now inside the tub is a small white piece and a clip on the shaft of the of the transmission to hold the piece in place. The agitator is mounted by a bolt located under the agitator cap, which you can pull of by hand, or use a screw driver in the designated slot for a screw driver. Once you've removed the cap, there is cap barrier, which has two pieces designed on it to put your fingers in a pull. The newer style Whirpool, Sears, and Maytag have a two piece agitator. Some of the older style whirlpool and sears have this agitator as well. Now that you know the set up lets get to some of the problems they have.
If the washer's agitator is not agitating anymore:
- Inside of the agitator is a cam with little agitator dogs that catch on some ridges on the inside of the agitator allowing the agitator to agitate correctly. Some of the older models don't have a two piece agitator with these dogs inside. If your having this problem you'll need a ratchet and some 6" + extension, and a 7/16" socket. Remove the cap from the agitator, pull the agitator barrier out, undo the 7/16" bolt, and pull out the agitator. Place both feet on the bottom of the agitator, with the agitator sitting on the ground, and pull on the top of the agitator to release the two pieces. You sometimes have to pull very hard, don't be scared. Inside there's a driven cam with agitator clutch dogs(a.k.a.agitator dogs) that give your agitator the ability to wash the clothes thoroughly. Once you've pulled the agitator apart the cam will just fall out into your hand. Remove the old dogs and re-assemble the agitator.
If the washer will fill and, depending on the make and age of the washer, won't agitate or spin. In other words has no power when it comes time to agitate or spin:
- When i say won't agitate or spin i mean that the motor is not running and it won't advance through the cycle. You'll first want to check your lid switch. Usually you'll hear the lid switch clicking as you raise and lower the lid. If your not hearing that, locate your lid switch. This can be found on the right side of the top of the cabinet where the lid shuts. On other models it can be found under the control panel. Examine it to make sure that it hasn't been broken and is no longer able to be mounted where it is to make contact. if it is still mounted, but your not sure if its working right. The easiest way to cross it off as a problem is to find the harness that connects to the lid switches harness. 1st unplug the washer. Take a 5 or 6 in. piece of wire, or a paper clip. On this harness is 3 wires, green, usually gray and tan. If your using a piece of wire, cut the wire back 1/4" on each end, and insert one end in the a tan and one in gray. Do not insert into the green. Make sure no exposed wire are touching anything grounded, plug the washer in, put the timer to spin. If it takes off into spin replace the lid switch.
Now if your washer will fill, but when it tries to advance into agitation all you hear is a hum:
- Unplug the washer. Remove the cabinet from the washer. Remove the pump clips and pull the pump off of the motor. With a larger ended flat head screwdriver, try to manually spin the pump. If the pump doesn't spin manually you'll need to remove the clamps on the hoses running to the pump. Have something ready to fill with the excess water left in the bottom of the tub and hoses, or several large towels. Once the hoses are off look inside the pump for something jamming it up. If there is nothing there, replace the pump. If it spins freely remove the screws and clips from the motor. Pull the motor, with the wiring harness still attached, out to the floor as far as the wires will allow without stressing the harness. Now go through the steps in the 1st paragraph to by-pass the lid switch. With the lid switch by-passed, the pump off of the motor, and the motor free from the transmission. Put the timer into spin and start it. If the motor still hums replace it. If the motor takes takes off then you know the motor is okay. You could have something stuck between the inner and outer tub or the transmission itself is locked up. You'll need the whirlpool spanner wrench to check between the tubs. There is a spanner nut that screws onto the nut block to secure the inner tub in it's place. If you don't want to get a spanner wrench another way you can determine which is the problem is to remove the agitator from the inner tub. Take the agitator cap off, remove the agitator barrier, and the bolt fastening it to the shaft of the transmission. Underneath the agitator remember to remove the clip and the white piece now visible on the shaft of the transmission. Now undo the 1/2" bolts that fasten the transmission to the cradle. Once all bolts are out the transmission you are able to drop the transmission out of spin tub, freeing the clutch from the basket drive. Now try to manually spin the motor coupling on the transmission. If you can't get it to spin, replace the transmission. If it will spin minus, being attached to the tub, you may need to get the spanner wrench(search Google to buy one) so you can remove the inner spin basket check for something not allowing it to spin.
If the your hear a loud noise when your washer tries to agitate or spin, but your getting no movement from the tub:
- You probably need a motor coupling. You won't know otherwise until you take the cabinet off of the washer off, remove the pump, and the motor. using the same steps as stated in previous paragraphs. Now that your motor coupling is visible. Examine it, usually its pretty obviously broken, sometimes its bored out in the center of the coupling. If it is replace the motor coupling. I use a 1/2 in. nut driver and a hammer to tap the each piece of the motor coupling onto the shaft of the tranny and the motor. Tap it on until there is approximately 1/16 in. gap left to go. If you go to far, the plastic motor coupling pieces will dig into the rubber piece. If the motor coupling is okay you may need a transmission or a clutch. Go a step further removing the agitator and the (3) 1/2" bolts on the transmission. Once you've dropped the transmission out of the spin tube, you're ready to inspect the clutch sitting on top of the transmission. If the clutch is extremely worn replace it. An obvious sign that the transmission is the problem is transmission oil splatter all over the inside cabinet wall and the floor under the washer.
If your getting a lot of excessive shaking from your washer:
- You should first consider the shape the floor is in supporting the washer. If you feel its not the problem, remove the cabinet of the washer. The cradle that supports the outer tub has three glides on it. If these glides are worn then the metal cradle is rubbing against the metal tub support and will shake excessively in spin. If you lift up on the metal that the outer tub is mounted to should be able to see the glides. If they are worn replace them. They have tabs on them, from underneath push on them and they will pop out. The new ones will snap right in. Make sure you are level when done and try it out with a load in it.
If your washer won't fill:
- Try the water temp on both cold and hot. If you get water on one and not the other, get access to the fill valve by removing the cabinet or lifting the timer control panel. Put the temp select to the water temp that's not working, turn the timer on. With a power tester test the solenoids on the fill valve for 120vac. If you have power and no water. Turn the shut off the water valves, undo your inlet hoses, remembering which one goes where. Check the screens inside the fill valve to make sure they aren't plugged with rust or w/e else might be in your water. If they are clear replace the fill valve. If there is no power to the valve you could have a timer or temp select problem.
If your washer is overflowing:
- It could be one of two things, the pressure tube has come off, or the fill valve solenoid is not closing when the washer is full. 1st the fill valve. You'll probably know if the fill valve is the issue because when you try to stop the water by turning off the timer it doesn't stop coming in. Turn the water valve off that continues to fill that is the case replace the fill valve using the steps in the above paragraph. If your washer is overfilling and you turn the timer off and the water stops coming in. Remove the cabinet from the washer. look around the outside of the tub for a small tube running from the control panel area, and should connect to a piece on the side of the outer tub. If this has come loose, or become clogged with gunk the washer will continue to fill, unable to engage the pressure switch that shuts the water off. If it has come off of its designated spot on the side of the tub(this will be a small, plastic square protruding from the outer tub, with a small round insert on top of it). Look inside the hose to make sure it hasn't accumulated material inside that will block the pressure to the switch. You can use an ice pick or long very small ended flat head screw driver the won't stretch the hose further. If it looks okay, before re-applying the tube, cut it back 1/4" so it fits tight on the piece its designed for. Over time they loose the elasticity they once had when it was first applied. If the tube hasn't come loose, track it up to the pressure switch to make sure it hasn't been kinked. If there is no kink, the hose hasn't fallen off, and there is no build-up in the hose. You may need a new pressure switch.
If your washer won't spin out the clothes well enough:
- Sometimes with this problem, people mistakenly think the dryer is not getting the clothes dry in same amount of time it used to, or taking 2 times to get them dry. Remove the agitator from the inner tub, the cabinet from the washer, tip the washer back so you'll have room to drop the transmission. Remove the pump from the motor, the motor from the transmission, and the (3) half inch bolts from the transmission. At this point the transmission will be ready to pull out of the spin tube. On top of the transmission is the clutch. A thrust spacer covering a c-clip and a clutch retainer clip that mount the clutch to the transmission. using a flat head screw driver remove the 2 clips and put on the new clutch. Re-assemble the washer and your ready to wash again.
If your washer is agitating as it is spinning:
- Go the the same steps as replacing the clutch. Only this time replace the transmission Its a good idea whenever you replace the transmission to replace the clutch as well. Unless, before the current problem that turned you on to a transmission as a problem, the Clothes were coming out of spin very dry. If your washer is several years old you might also change the motor coupling while changing the transmission. The motor coupling is a part that endures normal use wear and tear and is usually one of the main reasons we get call on these style of washers.
If your having issues with the timer, such as the one cycle doesn't work or the timer won't stay engaged:
- If one cycle doesn't work the only advice i can give you is to change the timer. If the timer doesn't stay engaged when you pull the knob. On models with a plastic timer there is a small white piece on the back of the timer. Gain access to the timer by lifting up the control panel. On the back there is a small white (sometimes black) clip that might have fallen out of place. If it is snap it back in and see how it works. If its not replace the timer.
Saturday, May 7, 2011
Front Load Washer Troubleshooting
Front load washers are considered to be high capacity, low-energy, water efficient machines. The price of some front loads have come down quite a bit making them more affordable to people. Most people who buy them are looking for these things, and are generally happy with the performance of the washer. However, as stated in the top load segment, they are designed differently than top loads. This design requires a sturdy floor to ensure the performance offered. They are a bit more technical than the top load designs and can sometimes take a technician a couple of trips to catch the problem if the problem doesn't occur while he's there. Our company will only charge one trip charge, and when the problem is fixed, charge only for the parts used on the return visit. One of the most common problem we run into with front load washers is excessive shaking. This could be several different problems, but usually this heavy machine is put on an old wood floor. On top of that most people want the pedestals for storage and to bring the door up a little higher. The combination of a weak floor and a pedestal are going to give you a lot of excessive shaking. When these machines shake excessively they will also sense this shaking, try to adjust clothing, and sometimes won't reach a high spin. Its a great feature given that its sensing an out of balance load and not excessive shaking because of the floor. It will just continue to try to redistribute the clothes, trying to eliminate this shaking. First thing you want to consider is your the floor's condition supporting the washer. If you feel it is sturdy enough move on the check the pedestal screws to make sure they are tightened. If the pedestal screws are tight, but the floor you feel is the problem and your able, our suggestion to the customer is to put floor jacks under the floor to support the floor better if you would like to keep the pedestals. That reduces the shaking sometimes. If that doesn't work , remove the pedestal, or call a technician to remove the pedestal, and see if that improves the problem.
Another problem we've ran into a lot is the washer: "customer complaint: never going into high spin, won't get my clothes completely dry, or won't finish the cycle." If its giving you a long drain code or you feel its not draining like it should. The first thing you want to do is check the pump trap to make sure its not plugged. Depending on the make of washer your looking at, the pump could be behind the lower front panel, access through the back of the washer, or the more customer friendly models in the access door for the pump. If the pump is clear, you will need the aid of an experienced technician. You could have and electronic board issue, which are hard to diagnose without the knowledge and experience with the washers.
Another problem commonly associated with front loads is a mildew smell that develops in a short time. This problem occurs because of how well these units seal. The suggestion given with this specific problem, and is probably suggested when purchasing, is to keep the door open after each use to allow the tub some air flow and prevent mildewy smell. Clean the inner door seal well with bleach or pinesol. There are products such as, techno fresh offered to help withe eliminate the smell. Only use HE detergent to prevent over sudsing. Use the sanitary option on the washer, with the hottest water option a few times.
These front loads are meant to use HE (high-efficiency) detergent. If the buyer is not aware or thinks its not necessary, because it costs more, IT IS NECESSARY. On top of the excessive suds it will create, associated with the mildew smell, it will cause what seams like a malfunction in the machine. Sometimes this gives you a SUDS code. Sometimes no code, and will turn a the appliance owner on to the idea that its not operating correctly. This over sudsing will not allow it to run through its operation because the motor control is built to detect this issue, stopping the washer from moving to high spin, or sometimes any spin.
If you are hearing a roar in spin where once it was nice and quiet, Call a technician. There are bearings in both the spin tub and the motor. It could also have something between the inner and outer tub.
Some things that will help the technician if you have to call:
- What is the problem?
- What detergent your using?
- What part of the cycle is the problem occurring in?
- If there is water on the floor, try to pay attention to when this is happening during the cycle? Is it happening all of the time, or intermittently?
- If there is a noise, pay attention to when during the cycle you are hearing the noise? load size being washed when you heard the noise.
- If you've personally attempted different things to repair the issues. What were they, and did it help?
- If you have a digital display. What, if any, failure codes are showing up. Write them down, a lot of people see these codes, but forget what it was they saw.
Note: The more information you can give a technician about the problem, the more likely the technician can properly diagnose the problem.
Come see us online Good Appliance where we have a large selection of new and used appliance parts.
Another problem we've ran into a lot is the washer: "customer complaint: never going into high spin, won't get my clothes completely dry, or won't finish the cycle." If its giving you a long drain code or you feel its not draining like it should. The first thing you want to do is check the pump trap to make sure its not plugged. Depending on the make of washer your looking at, the pump could be behind the lower front panel, access through the back of the washer, or the more customer friendly models in the access door for the pump. If the pump is clear, you will need the aid of an experienced technician. You could have and electronic board issue, which are hard to diagnose without the knowledge and experience with the washers.
Another problem commonly associated with front loads is a mildew smell that develops in a short time. This problem occurs because of how well these units seal. The suggestion given with this specific problem, and is probably suggested when purchasing, is to keep the door open after each use to allow the tub some air flow and prevent mildewy smell. Clean the inner door seal well with bleach or pinesol. There are products such as, techno fresh offered to help withe eliminate the smell. Only use HE detergent to prevent over sudsing. Use the sanitary option on the washer, with the hottest water option a few times.
These front loads are meant to use HE (high-efficiency) detergent. If the buyer is not aware or thinks its not necessary, because it costs more, IT IS NECESSARY. On top of the excessive suds it will create, associated with the mildew smell, it will cause what seams like a malfunction in the machine. Sometimes this gives you a SUDS code. Sometimes no code, and will turn a the appliance owner on to the idea that its not operating correctly. This over sudsing will not allow it to run through its operation because the motor control is built to detect this issue, stopping the washer from moving to high spin, or sometimes any spin.
If you are hearing a roar in spin where once it was nice and quiet, Call a technician. There are bearings in both the spin tub and the motor. It could also have something between the inner and outer tub.
Some things that will help the technician if you have to call:
- What is the problem?
- What detergent your using?
- What part of the cycle is the problem occurring in?
- If there is water on the floor, try to pay attention to when this is happening during the cycle? Is it happening all of the time, or intermittently?
- If there is a noise, pay attention to when during the cycle you are hearing the noise? load size being washed when you heard the noise.
- If you've personally attempted different things to repair the issues. What were they, and did it help?
- If you have a digital display. What, if any, failure codes are showing up. Write them down, a lot of people see these codes, but forget what it was they saw.
Note: The more information you can give a technician about the problem, the more likely the technician can properly diagnose the problem.
Come see us online Good Appliance where we have a large selection of new and used appliance parts.
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