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WARNING!!
Working with a gas dryer can be very dangerous. Please use extreme caution and make sure that the dryer is unplugged before any work is done. If you don’t know how to properly check for gas leads, do not remove the gas line. If you smell gas and aren’t able to find the leak, turn off the gas immediately, and call a professional to avoid injury or possible death. Use all precaution you can to protect yourself and those in your home.
The first thing we are going to look at is all the parts in your gas dryer working to give you heat. Make sure you get your model number off of the tag stamped on the dryer to get the correct parts for your dryer when you determine the problem. There is a power inlet cord that feeds 110-120vac electricity to all the parts in the dryer. The timer or control board is what is connecting the power to the appropriate parts through the cycle. The parts giving you heat vary model to model such as the number of thermostats, etc.. All are similar on in the order of operation. There is a gas valve that delivers the gas when the two wire coil of the two coils mounted on the top of the valve is energized once the thermostat mounted to the side of the flame tube reaches the correct temperature. The three wire coil mounted to the top of the valve is energized when the dryer timer is set on a heated selection and you press start, connecting power to the ignitor. There will be safety fuses to act as fail safes if the thermostats that control the temperature malfunction. The parts giving you your tumble and air flow during the cycle are the belt that runs over the tub, under the tensoiner pulley to hold the belt tight, and onto the motor pulley which gives you your spin. On the other shaft of the motor is the blower wheel that pulls the hot air over the clothes and out the vent giving the dryer the ability to dry the clothes. The parts ensuring a smooth sounding tumble will vary model to model. You could have two rollers on the back, plastic glides snapped to the tub, and a piece of felt on the front panel. Felt with glides on the front panel, rear bearing cup and assembly. Four rollers on the front and back panel with felt on the tub, etc..
Your gas dryer will not heat:
If your dryer won’t heat when you turn it on the 1st thing you’ll want to do is start the dryer in a heated selection and turn it on. Most dryers have a small square plastic piece located on the bottom left or right of the front panel, pop it out and you’ll be able to see inside of the cabinet and watch for the glow of the ignitor. If you don’t have a peep hole on your dryer what you’ll want to listen for is, immediately after you hit the start button on a heated selection on the timer you should hear a clunking sound. If you just hear the motor take off and no clunk, or dont’ see the glow from the ignitor for those who can look inside, then you’ve got one of several problems. You’ll need to figure out how to get into your dryer, we show you how in videos on our website. On gas dryers, unlike electric dryers order of operation, if the dryer is running and not heating you could have a thermal fuse issue. You’ll need to take your model number online to a parts dealer with a model look up to look through a parts breakdown of you dryer to find out which part is your thermal fuse it will have only 2 wires running to it. Once you’ve located your thermal fuse you can run an ohms or continuity test on the fuse. If you get no ohms then replace the fuse. Make sure before reapplying the vent and putting it back into regular use you clear the vent out completely from the inside to the outside. This is the most common cause of the thermal fuse malfunction. Also, get an oven thermometer or if you have a digital infared heat reader, which is best, and check the heat coming out of the back before putting the back panel on. You want 155F-170F deg coming out of the back of the dryer on a high temperature setting(test with no clothes in the drum and on timed dry selection on the timer). If the temperature is rising much higher than that you’ll need to replace the cycling thermostat which controls the temperature when operating.
If the thermal fuse gives a good ohms/continuity get the dryer to a place where you can power test the components inside of the cabinet minus the tub and with the font panel off. This is all relative to pressing the start button and not hearing a clunk or seeing a glow from the ignitor. You’ll need to make sure that the door switch is plugged in, no wires are grounded, and if your gas dryer has a tensioner safety switch disengage it. Plug the dryer in and press start start on a heated selection. Power test on vac at the three wire coil mounted to the top of the gas valve for 110-120vac. If your getting power and no glow from the ignitor, replace the coils.
Now if your hearing a clunk when you press start and aren’t seeing a glow from the ignitor:
This could be the ignitor, the gas coils, or the flame switch. This can be a bit tricky. If your dryer has a small plastic tab you can remove with the dryer together you can look inside to see if the ignitor is glowing or not. If the ignitor is not glowing. Unplug the dryer, take the dryer apart, tub out, door switch still plugged in, timer set to a heated selection, plug the dryer back in, and the dryer turned on. With a power tester check for 110-120vac at the 2 wires running to the ignitor. If your getting 110vac to the ignitor and no glow replace the ignitor.
If your getting a glow from the ignitor but the gas never comes on:
You’ll need to take the dryer apart to a point that you can power test at the flame switch. The flame switch is mounted on the side of the flame tube and is a black square part with two wires. If you get 110-120vac at the thermostat the ignitor glows and the gas never comes on and you still have the same power at the thermostat when the ignitor shuts off replace the flame switch.
When the flame is coming on and shutting off after a short time running:
Note: the flame should be on for 1 1/2-2 min when it 1st start, then come on to hold the correct temperature, 155f-175f deg if testing at the vent, thereafter. If the ignitor is glowing the flame is coming on and shutting off before getting hot enough, or not coming back on at all after the 1st time, replace the gas coils.
If the dryer is not getting hot enough by a little bit or just not getting the clothes dry enough:
1st clear out the vent from inside to outside to make sure its not just an air flow problem. You could have a cycling thermostat issue if its getting hot but just not hot enough. If your heat testing with an oven thermometer or laser thermal heat tester where the air is coming out of the back of the dryer with the vent off and no clothes in the dryer. You want 155-170f deg.. If its just not quite hot enough replace the cycling thermostat.
If the tub isn’t spinning or its noisy during spin:
You’ll need to to take the dryer apart and check you belt, rollers, and tensioner. Its best for regular maintenance to replace them all if you have a problem with 1. Due to the fact that these are you normal use wear and tear parts. Model to model they will be set up differently inside as far as the tub turning on felt with glides, # number of rollers, the style of tensioner, rear bearing set-up, etc.. The best way to find out what parts your dryer has inside to get an idea of how to take it apart, the parts ensuring a smooth sounding tumble, and what parts are working to give you heat is to come to our site and do a model number search and you’ll get a parts breakdown giving you direction before you tear into the dryer. This is just a general article mainly for the heating issue. Once again we have some videos on gas dryer repair at our site. Good luck on your repair.
Want to find out more about GAS DRYER REPAIR, then visit my site, become a member, and we’ll show you how to DO-IT-YOURSELF.
Working with a gas dryer can be very dangerous. Please use extreme caution and make sure that the dryer is unplugged before any work is done. If you don’t know how to properly check for gas leads, do not remove the gas line. If you smell gas and aren’t able to find the leak, turn off the gas immediately, and call a professional to avoid injury or possible death. Use all precaution you can to protect yourself and those in your home.
The first thing we are going to look at is all the parts in your gas dryer working to give you heat. Make sure you get your model number off of the tag stamped on the dryer to get the correct parts for your dryer when you determine the problem. There is a power inlet cord that feeds 110-120vac electricity to all the parts in the dryer. The timer or control board is what is connecting the power to the appropriate parts through the cycle. The parts giving you heat vary model to model such as the number of thermostats, etc.. All are similar on in the order of operation. There is a gas valve that delivers the gas when the two wire coil of the two coils mounted on the top of the valve is energized once the thermostat mounted to the side of the flame tube reaches the correct temperature. The three wire coil mounted to the top of the valve is energized when the dryer timer is set on a heated selection and you press start, connecting power to the ignitor. There will be safety fuses to act as fail safes if the thermostats that control the temperature malfunction. The parts giving you your tumble and air flow during the cycle are the belt that runs over the tub, under the tensoiner pulley to hold the belt tight, and onto the motor pulley which gives you your spin. On the other shaft of the motor is the blower wheel that pulls the hot air over the clothes and out the vent giving the dryer the ability to dry the clothes. The parts ensuring a smooth sounding tumble will vary model to model. You could have two rollers on the back, plastic glides snapped to the tub, and a piece of felt on the front panel. Felt with glides on the front panel, rear bearing cup and assembly. Four rollers on the front and back panel with felt on the tub, etc..
Your gas dryer will not heat:
If your dryer won’t heat when you turn it on the 1st thing you’ll want to do is start the dryer in a heated selection and turn it on. Most dryers have a small square plastic piece located on the bottom left or right of the front panel, pop it out and you’ll be able to see inside of the cabinet and watch for the glow of the ignitor. If you don’t have a peep hole on your dryer what you’ll want to listen for is, immediately after you hit the start button on a heated selection on the timer you should hear a clunking sound. If you just hear the motor take off and no clunk, or dont’ see the glow from the ignitor for those who can look inside, then you’ve got one of several problems. You’ll need to figure out how to get into your dryer, we show you how in videos on our website. On gas dryers, unlike electric dryers order of operation, if the dryer is running and not heating you could have a thermal fuse issue. You’ll need to take your model number online to a parts dealer with a model look up to look through a parts breakdown of you dryer to find out which part is your thermal fuse it will have only 2 wires running to it. Once you’ve located your thermal fuse you can run an ohms or continuity test on the fuse. If you get no ohms then replace the fuse. Make sure before reapplying the vent and putting it back into regular use you clear the vent out completely from the inside to the outside. This is the most common cause of the thermal fuse malfunction. Also, get an oven thermometer or if you have a digital infared heat reader, which is best, and check the heat coming out of the back before putting the back panel on. You want 155F-170F deg coming out of the back of the dryer on a high temperature setting(test with no clothes in the drum and on timed dry selection on the timer). If the temperature is rising much higher than that you’ll need to replace the cycling thermostat which controls the temperature when operating.
If the thermal fuse gives a good ohms/continuity get the dryer to a place where you can power test the components inside of the cabinet minus the tub and with the font panel off. This is all relative to pressing the start button and not hearing a clunk or seeing a glow from the ignitor. You’ll need to make sure that the door switch is plugged in, no wires are grounded, and if your gas dryer has a tensioner safety switch disengage it. Plug the dryer in and press start start on a heated selection. Power test on vac at the three wire coil mounted to the top of the gas valve for 110-120vac. If your getting power and no glow from the ignitor, replace the coils.
Now if your hearing a clunk when you press start and aren’t seeing a glow from the ignitor:
This could be the ignitor, the gas coils, or the flame switch. This can be a bit tricky. If your dryer has a small plastic tab you can remove with the dryer together you can look inside to see if the ignitor is glowing or not. If the ignitor is not glowing. Unplug the dryer, take the dryer apart, tub out, door switch still plugged in, timer set to a heated selection, plug the dryer back in, and the dryer turned on. With a power tester check for 110-120vac at the 2 wires running to the ignitor. If your getting 110vac to the ignitor and no glow replace the ignitor.
If your getting a glow from the ignitor but the gas never comes on:
You’ll need to take the dryer apart to a point that you can power test at the flame switch. The flame switch is mounted on the side of the flame tube and is a black square part with two wires. If you get 110-120vac at the thermostat the ignitor glows and the gas never comes on and you still have the same power at the thermostat when the ignitor shuts off replace the flame switch.
When the flame is coming on and shutting off after a short time running:
Note: the flame should be on for 1 1/2-2 min when it 1st start, then come on to hold the correct temperature, 155f-175f deg if testing at the vent, thereafter. If the ignitor is glowing the flame is coming on and shutting off before getting hot enough, or not coming back on at all after the 1st time, replace the gas coils.
If the dryer is not getting hot enough by a little bit or just not getting the clothes dry enough:
1st clear out the vent from inside to outside to make sure its not just an air flow problem. You could have a cycling thermostat issue if its getting hot but just not hot enough. If your heat testing with an oven thermometer or laser thermal heat tester where the air is coming out of the back of the dryer with the vent off and no clothes in the dryer. You want 155-170f deg.. If its just not quite hot enough replace the cycling thermostat.
If the tub isn’t spinning or its noisy during spin:
You’ll need to to take the dryer apart and check you belt, rollers, and tensioner. Its best for regular maintenance to replace them all if you have a problem with 1. Due to the fact that these are you normal use wear and tear parts. Model to model they will be set up differently inside as far as the tub turning on felt with glides, # number of rollers, the style of tensioner, rear bearing set-up, etc.. The best way to find out what parts your dryer has inside to get an idea of how to take it apart, the parts ensuring a smooth sounding tumble, and what parts are working to give you heat is to come to our site and do a model number search and you’ll get a parts breakdown giving you direction before you tear into the dryer. This is just a general article mainly for the heating issue. Once again we have some videos on gas dryer repair at our site. Good luck on your repair.
Want to find out more about GAS DRYER REPAIR, then visit my site, become a member, and we’ll show you how to DO-IT-YOURSELF.
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