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First thing you'll need to know is how to get into your washer:
- Unplug your washer before doing any kind of repair. Depending on how old or new your washer is will determine how you take it apart. The older of the new style Whirlpool and Kenmore will have screws visible on the bottom of the panel the timer is located on. Remove the screw and lift the panel. A little newer Whirpool and Kenmore washers have the screws of the back side of the panel the timer is on. Pull it away from the wall far enough to stretch your head back. You'll find a screw on the far left and right side of the panel ran into the cabinet. Remove the screws, lift the panel. On the newest style Whirlpool, Kenmore, and Maytag washers you'll need to get a puddy knife. Looking at the front of the washer timer panel there are to clips located on the far left and right side, not visible, between the timer panel and the top of the cabinet. Push on the panel slightly, slide your puddy knife on under until you feel your clip. Apply pressure to the clip and lift up on the panel until it releases. Once you've release both clips and the panel is lifter up your ready for the next step. Now undo your lid switch wiring. If you need to test your work before putting the cabinet back on, you will need to by-pass the lid switch. Go to the wire harness that runs to the lid switch on the cabinet. You will see a ground wire(green) and two other wires (usually gray and tan). Find a small wire and with wire strippers, strip both ends back a 1/4". Insert one end in the gray, one end in the tan(or w/e colors wires your washer has). Do not insert a wire in the green wire. Now you'll be able to turn the timer on and make sure there are no problems before you completely re-assemble the washer. After you've undone the lid switch harness, you'll see two brackets that snap into the cabinet and hook to the back panel. Take a screwdriver, insert it into the hooks where it is fastened to the cabinet, push and pry away from you. The brackets will pop loose and your ready to remove your cabinet.
These washer are a direct drive set up. Once you've removed your cabinet, the parts in order you'll see working to give you spin, agitation, and pump out are:
- The motor driven pump (3363394), fastened by two clips to the motor. The motor(you'll need your model # to get the right motor), fastened by two clips, with either 1/4" or or 5/16" head screws to the transmission. The motor coupling (285753), mounts on both the shaft of the motor and the transmission with a round rubber coupler. The transmission (3360629), fastened to the cradle of the washer with 3 half inch bolts. On top of the transmission is a clutch (285785), fastened to the transmission by a small clip, a c-clip and a washer that sits on top of the c-clip for protection while spinning. The transmission slides into the basket-drive assembly(285792), which is inserted into a drive block (389140) that sits between the spin tube and the inner tub. A spanner nut (21366) screws on to the drive block fastening the spin tub to the drive block. Now inside the tub is a small white piece and a clip on the shaft of the of the transmission to hold the piece in place. The agitator is mounted by a bolt located under the agitator cap, which you can pull of by hand, or use a screw driver in the designated slot for a screw driver. Once you've removed the cap, there is cap barrier, which has two pieces designed on it to put your fingers in a pull. The newer style Whirpool, Sears, and Maytag have a two piece agitator. Some of the older style whirlpool and sears have this agitator as well. Now that you know the set up lets get to some of the problems they have.
If the washer's agitator is not agitating anymore:
- Inside of the agitator is a cam with little agitator dogs that catch on some ridges on the inside of the agitator allowing the agitator to agitate correctly. Some of the older models don't have a two piece agitator with these dogs inside. If your having this problem you'll need a ratchet and some 6" + extension, and a 7/16" socket. Remove the cap from the agitator, pull the agitator barrier out, undo the 7/16" bolt, and pull out the agitator. Place both feet on the bottom of the agitator, with the agitator sitting on the ground, and pull on the top of the agitator to release the two pieces. You sometimes have to pull very hard, don't be scared. Inside there's a driven cam with agitator clutch dogs(a.k.a.agitator dogs) that give your agitator the ability to wash the clothes thoroughly. Once you've pulled the agitator apart the cam will just fall out into your hand. Remove the old dogs and re-assemble the agitator.
If the washer will fill and, depending on the make and age of the washer, won't agitate or spin. In other words has no power when it comes time to agitate or spin:
- When i say won't agitate or spin i mean that the motor is not running and it won't advance through the cycle. You'll first want to check your lid switch. Usually you'll hear the lid switch clicking as you raise and lower the lid. If your not hearing that, locate your lid switch. This can be found on the right side of the top of the cabinet where the lid shuts. On other models it can be found under the control panel. Examine it to make sure that it hasn't been broken and is no longer able to be mounted where it is to make contact. if it is still mounted, but your not sure if its working right. The easiest way to cross it off as a problem is to find the harness that connects to the lid switches harness. 1st unplug the washer. Take a 5 or 6 in. piece of wire, or a paper clip. On this harness is 3 wires, green, usually gray and tan. If your using a piece of wire, cut the wire back 1/4" on each end, and insert one end in the a tan and one in gray. Do not insert into the green. Make sure no exposed wire are touching anything grounded, plug the washer in, put the timer to spin. If it takes off into spin replace the lid switch.
Now if your washer will fill, but when it tries to advance into agitation all you hear is a hum:
- Unplug the washer. Remove the cabinet from the washer. Remove the pump clips and pull the pump off of the motor. With a larger ended flat head screwdriver, try to manually spin the pump. If the pump doesn't spin manually you'll need to remove the clamps on the hoses running to the pump. Have something ready to fill with the excess water left in the bottom of the tub and hoses, or several large towels. Once the hoses are off look inside the pump for something jamming it up. If there is nothing there, replace the pump. If it spins freely remove the screws and clips from the motor. Pull the motor, with the wiring harness still attached, out to the floor as far as the wires will allow without stressing the harness. Now go through the steps in the 1st paragraph to by-pass the lid switch. With the lid switch by-passed, the pump off of the motor, and the motor free from the transmission. Put the timer into spin and start it. If the motor still hums replace it. If the motor takes takes off then you know the motor is okay. You could have something stuck between the inner and outer tub or the transmission itself is locked up. You'll need the whirlpool spanner wrench to check between the tubs. There is a spanner nut that screws onto the nut block to secure the inner tub in it's place. If you don't want to get a spanner wrench another way you can determine which is the problem is to remove the agitator from the inner tub. Take the agitator cap off, remove the agitator barrier, and the bolt fastening it to the shaft of the transmission. Underneath the agitator remember to remove the clip and the white piece now visible on the shaft of the transmission. Now undo the 1/2" bolts that fasten the transmission to the cradle. Once all bolts are out the transmission you are able to drop the transmission out of spin tub, freeing the clutch from the basket drive. Now try to manually spin the motor coupling on the transmission. If you can't get it to spin, replace the transmission. If it will spin minus, being attached to the tub, you may need to get the spanner wrench(search Google to buy one) so you can remove the inner spin basket check for something not allowing it to spin.
If the your hear a loud noise when your washer tries to agitate or spin, but your getting no movement from the tub:
- You probably need a motor coupling. You won't know otherwise until you take the cabinet off of the washer off, remove the pump, and the motor. using the same steps as stated in previous paragraphs. Now that your motor coupling is visible. Examine it, usually its pretty obviously broken, sometimes its bored out in the center of the coupling. If it is replace the motor coupling. I use a 1/2 in. nut driver and a hammer to tap the each piece of the motor coupling onto the shaft of the tranny and the motor. Tap it on until there is approximately 1/16 in. gap left to go. If you go to far, the plastic motor coupling pieces will dig into the rubber piece. If the motor coupling is okay you may need a transmission or a clutch. Go a step further removing the agitator and the (3) 1/2" bolts on the transmission. Once you've dropped the transmission out of the spin tube, you're ready to inspect the clutch sitting on top of the transmission. If the clutch is extremely worn replace it. An obvious sign that the transmission is the problem is transmission oil splatter all over the inside cabinet wall and the floor under the washer.
If your getting a lot of excessive shaking from your washer:
- You should first consider the shape the floor is in supporting the washer. If you feel its not the problem, remove the cabinet of the washer. The cradle that supports the outer tub has three glides on it. If these glides are worn then the metal cradle is rubbing against the metal tub support and will shake excessively in spin. If you lift up on the metal that the outer tub is mounted to should be able to see the glides. If they are worn replace them. They have tabs on them, from underneath push on them and they will pop out. The new ones will snap right in. Make sure you are level when done and try it out with a load in it.
If your washer won't fill:
- Try the water temp on both cold and hot. If you get water on one and not the other, get access to the fill valve by removing the cabinet or lifting the timer control panel. Put the temp select to the water temp that's not working, turn the timer on. With a power tester test the solenoids on the fill valve for 120vac. If you have power and no water. Turn the shut off the water valves, undo your inlet hoses, remembering which one goes where. Check the screens inside the fill valve to make sure they aren't plugged with rust or w/e else might be in your water. If they are clear replace the fill valve. If there is no power to the valve you could have a timer or temp select problem.
If your washer is overflowing:
- It could be one of two things, the pressure tube has come off, or the fill valve solenoid is not closing when the washer is full. 1st the fill valve. You'll probably know if the fill valve is the issue because when you try to stop the water by turning off the timer it doesn't stop coming in. Turn the water valve off that continues to fill that is the case replace the fill valve using the steps in the above paragraph. If your washer is overfilling and you turn the timer off and the water stops coming in. Remove the cabinet from the washer. look around the outside of the tub for a small tube running from the control panel area, and should connect to a piece on the side of the outer tub. If this has come loose, or become clogged with gunk the washer will continue to fill, unable to engage the pressure switch that shuts the water off. If it has come off of its designated spot on the side of the tub(this will be a small, plastic square protruding from the outer tub, with a small round insert on top of it). Look inside the hose to make sure it hasn't accumulated material inside that will block the pressure to the switch. You can use an ice pick or long very small ended flat head screw driver the won't stretch the hose further. If it looks okay, before re-applying the tube, cut it back 1/4" so it fits tight on the piece its designed for. Over time they loose the elasticity they once had when it was first applied. If the tube hasn't come loose, track it up to the pressure switch to make sure it hasn't been kinked. If there is no kink, the hose hasn't fallen off, and there is no build-up in the hose. You may need a new pressure switch.
If your washer won't spin out the clothes well enough:
- Sometimes with this problem, people mistakenly think the dryer is not getting the clothes dry in same amount of time it used to, or taking 2 times to get them dry. Remove the agitator from the inner tub, the cabinet from the washer, tip the washer back so you'll have room to drop the transmission. Remove the pump from the motor, the motor from the transmission, and the (3) half inch bolts from the transmission. At this point the transmission will be ready to pull out of the spin tube. On top of the transmission is the clutch. A thrust spacer covering a c-clip and a clutch retainer clip that mount the clutch to the transmission. using a flat head screw driver remove the 2 clips and put on the new clutch. Re-assemble the washer and your ready to wash again.
If your washer is agitating as it is spinning:
- Go the the same steps as replacing the clutch. Only this time replace the transmission Its a good idea whenever you replace the transmission to replace the clutch as well. Unless, before the current problem that turned you on to a transmission as a problem, the Clothes were coming out of spin very dry. If your washer is several years old you might also change the motor coupling while changing the transmission. The motor coupling is a part that endures normal use wear and tear and is usually one of the main reasons we get call on these style of washers.
If your having issues with the timer, such as the one cycle doesn't work or the timer won't stay engaged:
- If one cycle doesn't work the only advice i can give you is to change the timer. If the timer doesn't stay engaged when you pull the knob. On models with a plastic timer there is a small white piece on the back of the timer. Gain access to the timer by lifting up the control panel. On the back there is a small white (sometimes black) clip that might have fallen out of place. If it is snap it back in and see how it works. If its not replace the timer.
- Unplug your washer before doing any kind of repair. Depending on how old or new your washer is will determine how you take it apart. The older of the new style Whirlpool and Kenmore will have screws visible on the bottom of the panel the timer is located on. Remove the screw and lift the panel. A little newer Whirpool and Kenmore washers have the screws of the back side of the panel the timer is on. Pull it away from the wall far enough to stretch your head back. You'll find a screw on the far left and right side of the panel ran into the cabinet. Remove the screws, lift the panel. On the newest style Whirlpool, Kenmore, and Maytag washers you'll need to get a puddy knife. Looking at the front of the washer timer panel there are to clips located on the far left and right side, not visible, between the timer panel and the top of the cabinet. Push on the panel slightly, slide your puddy knife on under until you feel your clip. Apply pressure to the clip and lift up on the panel until it releases. Once you've release both clips and the panel is lifter up your ready for the next step. Now undo your lid switch wiring. If you need to test your work before putting the cabinet back on, you will need to by-pass the lid switch. Go to the wire harness that runs to the lid switch on the cabinet. You will see a ground wire(green) and two other wires (usually gray and tan). Find a small wire and with wire strippers, strip both ends back a 1/4". Insert one end in the gray, one end in the tan(or w/e colors wires your washer has). Do not insert a wire in the green wire. Now you'll be able to turn the timer on and make sure there are no problems before you completely re-assemble the washer. After you've undone the lid switch harness, you'll see two brackets that snap into the cabinet and hook to the back panel. Take a screwdriver, insert it into the hooks where it is fastened to the cabinet, push and pry away from you. The brackets will pop loose and your ready to remove your cabinet.
These washer are a direct drive set up. Once you've removed your cabinet, the parts in order you'll see working to give you spin, agitation, and pump out are:
- The motor driven pump (3363394), fastened by two clips to the motor. The motor(you'll need your model # to get the right motor), fastened by two clips, with either 1/4" or or 5/16" head screws to the transmission. The motor coupling (285753), mounts on both the shaft of the motor and the transmission with a round rubber coupler. The transmission (3360629), fastened to the cradle of the washer with 3 half inch bolts. On top of the transmission is a clutch (285785), fastened to the transmission by a small clip, a c-clip and a washer that sits on top of the c-clip for protection while spinning. The transmission slides into the basket-drive assembly(285792), which is inserted into a drive block (389140) that sits between the spin tube and the inner tub. A spanner nut (21366) screws on to the drive block fastening the spin tub to the drive block. Now inside the tub is a small white piece and a clip on the shaft of the of the transmission to hold the piece in place. The agitator is mounted by a bolt located under the agitator cap, which you can pull of by hand, or use a screw driver in the designated slot for a screw driver. Once you've removed the cap, there is cap barrier, which has two pieces designed on it to put your fingers in a pull. The newer style Whirpool, Sears, and Maytag have a two piece agitator. Some of the older style whirlpool and sears have this agitator as well. Now that you know the set up lets get to some of the problems they have.
If the washer's agitator is not agitating anymore:
- Inside of the agitator is a cam with little agitator dogs that catch on some ridges on the inside of the agitator allowing the agitator to agitate correctly. Some of the older models don't have a two piece agitator with these dogs inside. If your having this problem you'll need a ratchet and some 6" + extension, and a 7/16" socket. Remove the cap from the agitator, pull the agitator barrier out, undo the 7/16" bolt, and pull out the agitator. Place both feet on the bottom of the agitator, with the agitator sitting on the ground, and pull on the top of the agitator to release the two pieces. You sometimes have to pull very hard, don't be scared. Inside there's a driven cam with agitator clutch dogs(a.k.a.agitator dogs) that give your agitator the ability to wash the clothes thoroughly. Once you've pulled the agitator apart the cam will just fall out into your hand. Remove the old dogs and re-assemble the agitator.
If the washer will fill and, depending on the make and age of the washer, won't agitate or spin. In other words has no power when it comes time to agitate or spin:
- When i say won't agitate or spin i mean that the motor is not running and it won't advance through the cycle. You'll first want to check your lid switch. Usually you'll hear the lid switch clicking as you raise and lower the lid. If your not hearing that, locate your lid switch. This can be found on the right side of the top of the cabinet where the lid shuts. On other models it can be found under the control panel. Examine it to make sure that it hasn't been broken and is no longer able to be mounted where it is to make contact. if it is still mounted, but your not sure if its working right. The easiest way to cross it off as a problem is to find the harness that connects to the lid switches harness. 1st unplug the washer. Take a 5 or 6 in. piece of wire, or a paper clip. On this harness is 3 wires, green, usually gray and tan. If your using a piece of wire, cut the wire back 1/4" on each end, and insert one end in the a tan and one in gray. Do not insert into the green. Make sure no exposed wire are touching anything grounded, plug the washer in, put the timer to spin. If it takes off into spin replace the lid switch.
Now if your washer will fill, but when it tries to advance into agitation all you hear is a hum:
- Unplug the washer. Remove the cabinet from the washer. Remove the pump clips and pull the pump off of the motor. With a larger ended flat head screwdriver, try to manually spin the pump. If the pump doesn't spin manually you'll need to remove the clamps on the hoses running to the pump. Have something ready to fill with the excess water left in the bottom of the tub and hoses, or several large towels. Once the hoses are off look inside the pump for something jamming it up. If there is nothing there, replace the pump. If it spins freely remove the screws and clips from the motor. Pull the motor, with the wiring harness still attached, out to the floor as far as the wires will allow without stressing the harness. Now go through the steps in the 1st paragraph to by-pass the lid switch. With the lid switch by-passed, the pump off of the motor, and the motor free from the transmission. Put the timer into spin and start it. If the motor still hums replace it. If the motor takes takes off then you know the motor is okay. You could have something stuck between the inner and outer tub or the transmission itself is locked up. You'll need the whirlpool spanner wrench to check between the tubs. There is a spanner nut that screws onto the nut block to secure the inner tub in it's place. If you don't want to get a spanner wrench another way you can determine which is the problem is to remove the agitator from the inner tub. Take the agitator cap off, remove the agitator barrier, and the bolt fastening it to the shaft of the transmission. Underneath the agitator remember to remove the clip and the white piece now visible on the shaft of the transmission. Now undo the 1/2" bolts that fasten the transmission to the cradle. Once all bolts are out the transmission you are able to drop the transmission out of spin tub, freeing the clutch from the basket drive. Now try to manually spin the motor coupling on the transmission. If you can't get it to spin, replace the transmission. If it will spin minus, being attached to the tub, you may need to get the spanner wrench(search Google to buy one) so you can remove the inner spin basket check for something not allowing it to spin.
If the your hear a loud noise when your washer tries to agitate or spin, but your getting no movement from the tub:
- You probably need a motor coupling. You won't know otherwise until you take the cabinet off of the washer off, remove the pump, and the motor. using the same steps as stated in previous paragraphs. Now that your motor coupling is visible. Examine it, usually its pretty obviously broken, sometimes its bored out in the center of the coupling. If it is replace the motor coupling. I use a 1/2 in. nut driver and a hammer to tap the each piece of the motor coupling onto the shaft of the tranny and the motor. Tap it on until there is approximately 1/16 in. gap left to go. If you go to far, the plastic motor coupling pieces will dig into the rubber piece. If the motor coupling is okay you may need a transmission or a clutch. Go a step further removing the agitator and the (3) 1/2" bolts on the transmission. Once you've dropped the transmission out of the spin tube, you're ready to inspect the clutch sitting on top of the transmission. If the clutch is extremely worn replace it. An obvious sign that the transmission is the problem is transmission oil splatter all over the inside cabinet wall and the floor under the washer.
If your getting a lot of excessive shaking from your washer:
- You should first consider the shape the floor is in supporting the washer. If you feel its not the problem, remove the cabinet of the washer. The cradle that supports the outer tub has three glides on it. If these glides are worn then the metal cradle is rubbing against the metal tub support and will shake excessively in spin. If you lift up on the metal that the outer tub is mounted to should be able to see the glides. If they are worn replace them. They have tabs on them, from underneath push on them and they will pop out. The new ones will snap right in. Make sure you are level when done and try it out with a load in it.
If your washer won't fill:
- Try the water temp on both cold and hot. If you get water on one and not the other, get access to the fill valve by removing the cabinet or lifting the timer control panel. Put the temp select to the water temp that's not working, turn the timer on. With a power tester test the solenoids on the fill valve for 120vac. If you have power and no water. Turn the shut off the water valves, undo your inlet hoses, remembering which one goes where. Check the screens inside the fill valve to make sure they aren't plugged with rust or w/e else might be in your water. If they are clear replace the fill valve. If there is no power to the valve you could have a timer or temp select problem.
If your washer is overflowing:
- It could be one of two things, the pressure tube has come off, or the fill valve solenoid is not closing when the washer is full. 1st the fill valve. You'll probably know if the fill valve is the issue because when you try to stop the water by turning off the timer it doesn't stop coming in. Turn the water valve off that continues to fill that is the case replace the fill valve using the steps in the above paragraph. If your washer is overfilling and you turn the timer off and the water stops coming in. Remove the cabinet from the washer. look around the outside of the tub for a small tube running from the control panel area, and should connect to a piece on the side of the outer tub. If this has come loose, or become clogged with gunk the washer will continue to fill, unable to engage the pressure switch that shuts the water off. If it has come off of its designated spot on the side of the tub(this will be a small, plastic square protruding from the outer tub, with a small round insert on top of it). Look inside the hose to make sure it hasn't accumulated material inside that will block the pressure to the switch. You can use an ice pick or long very small ended flat head screw driver the won't stretch the hose further. If it looks okay, before re-applying the tube, cut it back 1/4" so it fits tight on the piece its designed for. Over time they loose the elasticity they once had when it was first applied. If the tube hasn't come loose, track it up to the pressure switch to make sure it hasn't been kinked. If there is no kink, the hose hasn't fallen off, and there is no build-up in the hose. You may need a new pressure switch.
If your washer won't spin out the clothes well enough:
- Sometimes with this problem, people mistakenly think the dryer is not getting the clothes dry in same amount of time it used to, or taking 2 times to get them dry. Remove the agitator from the inner tub, the cabinet from the washer, tip the washer back so you'll have room to drop the transmission. Remove the pump from the motor, the motor from the transmission, and the (3) half inch bolts from the transmission. At this point the transmission will be ready to pull out of the spin tube. On top of the transmission is the clutch. A thrust spacer covering a c-clip and a clutch retainer clip that mount the clutch to the transmission. using a flat head screw driver remove the 2 clips and put on the new clutch. Re-assemble the washer and your ready to wash again.
If your washer is agitating as it is spinning:
- Go the the same steps as replacing the clutch. Only this time replace the transmission Its a good idea whenever you replace the transmission to replace the clutch as well. Unless, before the current problem that turned you on to a transmission as a problem, the Clothes were coming out of spin very dry. If your washer is several years old you might also change the motor coupling while changing the transmission. The motor coupling is a part that endures normal use wear and tear and is usually one of the main reasons we get call on these style of washers.
If your having issues with the timer, such as the one cycle doesn't work or the timer won't stay engaged:
- If one cycle doesn't work the only advice i can give you is to change the timer. If the timer doesn't stay engaged when you pull the knob. On models with a plastic timer there is a small white piece on the back of the timer. Gain access to the timer by lifting up the control panel. On the back there is a small white (sometimes black) clip that might have fallen out of place. If it is snap it back in and see how it works. If its not replace the timer.
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