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Today refrigerators are a necessity for most. Our company gives them priority over other calls so the customer doesn't lose their food. A lot of problems are pretty obvious. Other problem can sometimes be complicated to catch, due to the fact that the customer complaint is usually the same. "It's not cooling correctly, every once in a while this happens, or we hear this noise sometimes, but don't know where it's coming from on the refrigerator." It may take 1 or 2 trips to catch the problem while it's happening. Sometimes we just have to wait till it gets worse and is happening more often. Our company with these problems will only charge a person 1 service charge and when we do catch the problem, will then charge for whatever parts are required.
It's a good idea to keep a thermometer in the freezer section, you want 0-+10 degrees fahrenheit. It's commonly thought that the refrigerator section of the refrigerator cools itself. This is true on some models if you want that option for a bit more money. On most refrigerators the freezer section is the section that cools both sides. Ice cream in the freezer is another early sign that you have a problem. If it isn't freezing to a point that the ice cream hardened, then something's going on. Another simple thing to check is for proper installation. When it was delivered did they raise the refrigerator adjustable legs or rollers to give you approximately 1/8" fall from the front of the refrigerator to back, or enough fall to allow the refrigerator door to swing shut by itself? If the door is not swinging shut on its own from about half way open, you can get a level and tape measure to get the correct amount of fall as you raise the front legs or adjustable rollers located, behind the kick panel, below the refrigerator door. You will need the help of someone to tilt the refrigerator back for you. As you raise the refrigerator place the level on the top of the refrigerator running from front to back. Now find 1/8" on your tape measure, place the end of the tape against the top of the refrigerator towards the back of the level. Lift the back of the level up until the level reads level. When you see your at level, look at where you are on the tape measure. That will give you the measurement of fall.
Another regular problem is ice continues to build in the bottom of the freezer section, and water keeps running onto the floor, or into the refrigerator. The difference on where the water is appearing is going to be the style of refrigerator you have(upright, s x s, french door). The refrigerator has a defrost cycle, as part of the today frost-free designs. It also comes with a drain for the frost melted off during this cycle. First things first, unplug the refrigerator. We don't want to see you get a shock in the mouth. That would hurt! Now you take all your food out of the freezer and remove the panel located in the back of the freezer section. You will then have access to the defrost drain. You should see a lot of ice built up below the aluminum evaporator coils. The evaporator coils look similar to a radiator on a car. As carefully as you can break away as much ice as you can, you don't want to pierce the wall of the freezer. Then what i use is the same 1/4" tube that runs to the ice maker if present on your refrigerator. Fill a large cup with warm water, keep a few large towels handy. Fill your mouth with the water and guide the hose with your hand in the area of the drain hole. Start at the drain hole so when you start working on the other areas built up with ice the water will have somewhere to go. Once you clear an area well enough you should be able to gently get a screw driver under the surrounding areas with ice. After you've completed the task re-assemble and turn the refrigerator back on. If you have to do this more than once call a technician, they have access to defrost drain heaters to eliminate this from happening over and over. This drain heater ties into the fan wires so that anytime the fan is running(cooling), the heater is on keeping ice from freezing up the drain.
If your refrigerator is running all the time and you've already checked your condenser coils. Check your seals on both the refrigerator and freezer section for a proper seal. Clean the seal off the best you can with some and a dish scrubber. After all the gooey, discolored material has been scrubbed off take a wash rag over it with water only to get all the soap off. Refrigerators seals have a tendency to get food or liquids on them as you traffic in and out of them. Another thing to look for is a frost build-up on the back panel of the freezer. If you see this happening and can't get anyone to come quick enough to save your food. Take all the food out of the freezer and remove the back panel. Sometimes the frost has been building up for a while and to remove the screws you'll have to melt away some ice first. I use a hair dryer to defrost the freezer, so if your lucky enough to have an amazing wife in the house. Steal one of her favorite tools, melt away the ice to the back panel screws, remove it, and blow dry all the ice away. This is only a temporary fix until a technician can properly fix it. It will cool for you approximately a week and a half or two weeks before it builds up again. You can expect it to need a defrost thermostat, defrost timer, or defrost heater. If you look at the back panel and see no frost built up. Pull the refrigerator out, make sure the fan in the freezer is running. If it is then that means the compressor should be running. Take the panel off of the back of the refrigerator exposing the compressor and the condenser fan. Check the condenser fan to see if its working, If it is then check the compressor to see if its running. If the condenser fan is locked up replace it or clear away anything that might be keeping it from blowing. If the compressor is not running, but all the fans are running. Feel the compressor, if its warm unplug the refrigerator. Replace the relay it should take right off and cool back down in about a days time. We always replace the original relay with a RCO410 Hard Start Relay just in case the compressor is making the relay work a little harder than it did when it was new. If compressor is cold, unplug the refrigerator. Remove the relay from the terminals. Once removed you'll see 3 terminals on the side of the compressor. At this point you'll need a digital multimeter or an analog ohms meter. You'll be testing for ohms or continuity between all variations terminal-to-terminal. If you get ohms or continuity between all scratch some paint off of the compressor. With one probe on the bare spot of the compressor, take the other probe to each terminal on the compressor. You want infinite (0) ohms or no continuity. If you get no continuity replace the relay with a RCO410 Hard Start Relay. If there is continuity or ohms with this test you'll need a professional for a compressor change. If all fans are running and the compressor is running you could have a freon problem and will require a technician to properly fix the problem. The EPA requires certification for anything that is reasonably expected to release freon into the air.
Another regular problem is ice continues to build in the bottom of the freezer section, and water keeps running onto the floor, or into the refrigerator. On a SxS refrigerator the water will leak out of the freezer onto the floor and the ice in the bottom of the freezer will be visible. On an upright the water will appear in the refrigerator section on the top shelf and eventually onto the floor out of the ref section. On a french door style the water will appear on the floor under the freezer door and the ice in the bottom of the freezer section. The refrigerator has a defrost cycle, as part of the today frost-free designs. It also comes with a drain for the frost melted off during this cycle. First things first, unplug the refrigerator. We don't want to see you get a shock. Now you take all your food out of the freezer and remove the panel located in the back of the freezer section. You will then have access to the defrost drain. You should see a lot of ice built up below the aluminum evaporator coils. The evaporator coils look similar to a radiator on a car. Very gently break away as much ice as you can, being extra careful, so you don't pierce the wall of the freezer. Then what i use is the same 1/4" tube that runs to the ice maker if present on your refrigerator. Fill a large cup with warm water, keep a few large towels handy. Fill your mouth with the water and guide the hose with your hand in the area of the drain hole. Start at the drain hole so when you start working on the other areas built up with ice the water will have somewhere to go. Once you clear an area well enough you should be able to gently get a screw driver under the surrounding areas with ice. After you've completed the job re-assemble and turn the refrigerator back on. If you have to do this more than once call a technician, they have access to defrost drain heaters to eliminate this from happening again and again. This drain heater ties into the the fan wires so that anytime the fan is running(cooling), the heater is on keeping ice from freezing up the drain.
If your refrigerator is running all the time and you've already checked your condenser coils. Check your seals on both the refrigerator and freezer section for a proper seal. Clean the seal off the best you can with some soap and a dish scrubber. After you've got it fairly cleaned off run a rag over it with water only to get all the soap off. Refrigerators seals have a tendency to get food or liquids on them as you traffic in and out of them. Another thing to look for is a frost build-up on the back panel of the freezer. If you see this happening and can't get anyone to come quick enough to save your food. Take all the food out of the freezer and remove the back panel. Sometimes the frost has been building up for a while and to remove the screws you'll have to melt away some ice first. I use a hair dryer to defrost the freezer. So steal one of your wives favorite tools, melt away the ice to the back panel screws, remove it, and blow dry all the ice away. This is only a temporary fix until a repairman can properly fix it. It will cool for you up to two weeks before it builds up again. You can expect it to need a defrost thermostat, defrost timer, or defrost heater. If you look at the back panel and see no frost built up. Pull the refrigerator out, make sure the fan in the freezer is running. If it is then that means the compressor should be running. Take the panel off of the back of the refrigerator exposing the compressor and the condenser fan. Check the condenser fan to see if its working, If it is then check the compressor to see if its running. If the condenser fan is locked up replace it or clear away anything that might be keeping it from blowing. If the compressor is not running, but all the fans are running. Feel the compressor, if its warm unplug the refrigerator. Replace the relay it should take right off and cool back down in about a days time. We always replace the original relay with a RCO410 Hard Start Relay just in case the compressor is making the relay work a little harder than it did when it was new. If compressor is cold, unplug the refrigerator. Remove the relay from the terminals. Once removed you'll see 3 terminals on the side of the compressor. At this point you'll need a digital multimeter or an analog ohms meter. You'll be testing for ohms or continuity between all variations terminal-to-terminal. If you get ohms or continuity between all scratch some paint off of the compressor. With one probe on the bare spot of the compressor, take the other probe to each terminal on the compressor. You want infinite (0) ohms or no continuity. If you get no continuity replace the relay with a RCO410 Hard Start Relay. If there is continuity or ohms with this test you'll need a professional for a compressor change. If all fans are running and the compressor is running you could have a freon problem and will require a technician to properly fix the problem. The EPA requires certification for anything that is reasonably expected to release freon into the air.
Knowing these answers will help the technician if you have to call:
- What problem are you experiencing?
- Has the problem came on all of the sudden or gradually?
- If the refrigerator is occasionally thawing out:
- When it is thawing, is the fan in the freezer running or not?
- If there is a noise:
- When do you hear the noise? When the refrigerator stops and starts the cooling cycle?
- If the refrigerator is making a noise while the fans are running try your best to determine where it is coming from. Inside of the refrigerator or in the area of the compressor.
- What have you personally done to try to eliminate the problem? Did it work, or not?
Note: The more information you can give the technician about the problem, the more likely the technician can properly diagnose the problem.
It's a good idea to keep a thermometer in the freezer section, you want 0-+10 degrees fahrenheit. It's commonly thought that the refrigerator section of the refrigerator cools itself. This is true on some models if you want that option for a bit more money. On most refrigerators the freezer section is the section that cools both sides. Ice cream in the freezer is another early sign that you have a problem. If it isn't freezing to a point that the ice cream hardened, then something's going on. Another simple thing to check is for proper installation. When it was delivered did they raise the refrigerator adjustable legs or rollers to give you approximately 1/8" fall from the front of the refrigerator to back, or enough fall to allow the refrigerator door to swing shut by itself? If the door is not swinging shut on its own from about half way open, you can get a level and tape measure to get the correct amount of fall as you raise the front legs or adjustable rollers located, behind the kick panel, below the refrigerator door. You will need the help of someone to tilt the refrigerator back for you. As you raise the refrigerator place the level on the top of the refrigerator running from front to back. Now find 1/8" on your tape measure, place the end of the tape against the top of the refrigerator towards the back of the level. Lift the back of the level up until the level reads level. When you see your at level, look at where you are on the tape measure. That will give you the measurement of fall.
Another regular problem is ice continues to build in the bottom of the freezer section, and water keeps running onto the floor, or into the refrigerator. The difference on where the water is appearing is going to be the style of refrigerator you have(upright, s x s, french door). The refrigerator has a defrost cycle, as part of the today frost-free designs. It also comes with a drain for the frost melted off during this cycle. First things first, unplug the refrigerator. We don't want to see you get a shock in the mouth. That would hurt! Now you take all your food out of the freezer and remove the panel located in the back of the freezer section. You will then have access to the defrost drain. You should see a lot of ice built up below the aluminum evaporator coils. The evaporator coils look similar to a radiator on a car. As carefully as you can break away as much ice as you can, you don't want to pierce the wall of the freezer. Then what i use is the same 1/4" tube that runs to the ice maker if present on your refrigerator. Fill a large cup with warm water, keep a few large towels handy. Fill your mouth with the water and guide the hose with your hand in the area of the drain hole. Start at the drain hole so when you start working on the other areas built up with ice the water will have somewhere to go. Once you clear an area well enough you should be able to gently get a screw driver under the surrounding areas with ice. After you've completed the task re-assemble and turn the refrigerator back on. If you have to do this more than once call a technician, they have access to defrost drain heaters to eliminate this from happening over and over. This drain heater ties into the fan wires so that anytime the fan is running(cooling), the heater is on keeping ice from freezing up the drain.
If your refrigerator is running all the time and you've already checked your condenser coils. Check your seals on both the refrigerator and freezer section for a proper seal. Clean the seal off the best you can with some and a dish scrubber. After all the gooey, discolored material has been scrubbed off take a wash rag over it with water only to get all the soap off. Refrigerators seals have a tendency to get food or liquids on them as you traffic in and out of them. Another thing to look for is a frost build-up on the back panel of the freezer. If you see this happening and can't get anyone to come quick enough to save your food. Take all the food out of the freezer and remove the back panel. Sometimes the frost has been building up for a while and to remove the screws you'll have to melt away some ice first. I use a hair dryer to defrost the freezer, so if your lucky enough to have an amazing wife in the house. Steal one of her favorite tools, melt away the ice to the back panel screws, remove it, and blow dry all the ice away. This is only a temporary fix until a technician can properly fix it. It will cool for you approximately a week and a half or two weeks before it builds up again. You can expect it to need a defrost thermostat, defrost timer, or defrost heater. If you look at the back panel and see no frost built up. Pull the refrigerator out, make sure the fan in the freezer is running. If it is then that means the compressor should be running. Take the panel off of the back of the refrigerator exposing the compressor and the condenser fan. Check the condenser fan to see if its working, If it is then check the compressor to see if its running. If the condenser fan is locked up replace it or clear away anything that might be keeping it from blowing. If the compressor is not running, but all the fans are running. Feel the compressor, if its warm unplug the refrigerator. Replace the relay it should take right off and cool back down in about a days time. We always replace the original relay with a RCO410 Hard Start Relay just in case the compressor is making the relay work a little harder than it did when it was new. If compressor is cold, unplug the refrigerator. Remove the relay from the terminals. Once removed you'll see 3 terminals on the side of the compressor. At this point you'll need a digital multimeter or an analog ohms meter. You'll be testing for ohms or continuity between all variations terminal-to-terminal. If you get ohms or continuity between all scratch some paint off of the compressor. With one probe on the bare spot of the compressor, take the other probe to each terminal on the compressor. You want infinite (0) ohms or no continuity. If you get no continuity replace the relay with a RCO410 Hard Start Relay. If there is continuity or ohms with this test you'll need a professional for a compressor change. If all fans are running and the compressor is running you could have a freon problem and will require a technician to properly fix the problem. The EPA requires certification for anything that is reasonably expected to release freon into the air.
Another regular problem is ice continues to build in the bottom of the freezer section, and water keeps running onto the floor, or into the refrigerator. On a SxS refrigerator the water will leak out of the freezer onto the floor and the ice in the bottom of the freezer will be visible. On an upright the water will appear in the refrigerator section on the top shelf and eventually onto the floor out of the ref section. On a french door style the water will appear on the floor under the freezer door and the ice in the bottom of the freezer section. The refrigerator has a defrost cycle, as part of the today frost-free designs. It also comes with a drain for the frost melted off during this cycle. First things first, unplug the refrigerator. We don't want to see you get a shock. Now you take all your food out of the freezer and remove the panel located in the back of the freezer section. You will then have access to the defrost drain. You should see a lot of ice built up below the aluminum evaporator coils. The evaporator coils look similar to a radiator on a car. Very gently break away as much ice as you can, being extra careful, so you don't pierce the wall of the freezer. Then what i use is the same 1/4" tube that runs to the ice maker if present on your refrigerator. Fill a large cup with warm water, keep a few large towels handy. Fill your mouth with the water and guide the hose with your hand in the area of the drain hole. Start at the drain hole so when you start working on the other areas built up with ice the water will have somewhere to go. Once you clear an area well enough you should be able to gently get a screw driver under the surrounding areas with ice. After you've completed the job re-assemble and turn the refrigerator back on. If you have to do this more than once call a technician, they have access to defrost drain heaters to eliminate this from happening again and again. This drain heater ties into the the fan wires so that anytime the fan is running(cooling), the heater is on keeping ice from freezing up the drain.
If your refrigerator is running all the time and you've already checked your condenser coils. Check your seals on both the refrigerator and freezer section for a proper seal. Clean the seal off the best you can with some soap and a dish scrubber. After you've got it fairly cleaned off run a rag over it with water only to get all the soap off. Refrigerators seals have a tendency to get food or liquids on them as you traffic in and out of them. Another thing to look for is a frost build-up on the back panel of the freezer. If you see this happening and can't get anyone to come quick enough to save your food. Take all the food out of the freezer and remove the back panel. Sometimes the frost has been building up for a while and to remove the screws you'll have to melt away some ice first. I use a hair dryer to defrost the freezer. So steal one of your wives favorite tools, melt away the ice to the back panel screws, remove it, and blow dry all the ice away. This is only a temporary fix until a repairman can properly fix it. It will cool for you up to two weeks before it builds up again. You can expect it to need a defrost thermostat, defrost timer, or defrost heater. If you look at the back panel and see no frost built up. Pull the refrigerator out, make sure the fan in the freezer is running. If it is then that means the compressor should be running. Take the panel off of the back of the refrigerator exposing the compressor and the condenser fan. Check the condenser fan to see if its working, If it is then check the compressor to see if its running. If the condenser fan is locked up replace it or clear away anything that might be keeping it from blowing. If the compressor is not running, but all the fans are running. Feel the compressor, if its warm unplug the refrigerator. Replace the relay it should take right off and cool back down in about a days time. We always replace the original relay with a RCO410 Hard Start Relay just in case the compressor is making the relay work a little harder than it did when it was new. If compressor is cold, unplug the refrigerator. Remove the relay from the terminals. Once removed you'll see 3 terminals on the side of the compressor. At this point you'll need a digital multimeter or an analog ohms meter. You'll be testing for ohms or continuity between all variations terminal-to-terminal. If you get ohms or continuity between all scratch some paint off of the compressor. With one probe on the bare spot of the compressor, take the other probe to each terminal on the compressor. You want infinite (0) ohms or no continuity. If you get no continuity replace the relay with a RCO410 Hard Start Relay. If there is continuity or ohms with this test you'll need a professional for a compressor change. If all fans are running and the compressor is running you could have a freon problem and will require a technician to properly fix the problem. The EPA requires certification for anything that is reasonably expected to release freon into the air.
Knowing these answers will help the technician if you have to call:
- What problem are you experiencing?
- Has the problem came on all of the sudden or gradually?
- If the refrigerator is occasionally thawing out:
- When it is thawing, is the fan in the freezer running or not?
- If there is a noise:
- When do you hear the noise? When the refrigerator stops and starts the cooling cycle?
- If the refrigerator is making a noise while the fans are running try your best to determine where it is coming from. Inside of the refrigerator or in the area of the compressor.
- What have you personally done to try to eliminate the problem? Did it work, or not?
Note: The more information you can give the technician about the problem, the more likely the technician can properly diagnose the problem.
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